Monjayaki
Photo: Ocdp · CC0

Tokyo's Tsukishima-island griddle pancake: a wet batter of dashi-flavoured flour with cabbage, seafood and bacon, cooked thin and crisp on a hot teppan, scraped up with small spatulas and eaten straight off the griddle.

Monjayaki is Tokyo's distinctive answer to Osaka okonomiyaki, originating in the early 20th century as a children's snack at penny-candy shops where the runny batter was used to scrawl letters on the griddle (the name derives from moji-yaki, letter-grilled). By the postwar period it had moved into the Tsukishima district of Tokyo Bay, where over 70 monjayaki specialists now line Nishi-Naka-dori, known as Monja Street. The form is wholly Tokyo: a much wetter batter than okonomiyaki, eaten with tiny hagashi spatulas straight off the hot griddle in small crisped bites. Standard fillings include mentaiko-mochi-cheese, kaisen (seafood), and the canonical mix-of-everything moriawase.

1 editor pick for Monjayaki in Tokyo, ranked by editorial score. All Tokyo signature dishes · Monjayaki across every city.

Ameya-Yokocho street stalls ★ 4.2

¥Street food

Ameya-Yokocho in Tokyo's Ueno is the 500-metre street under the JR tracks, 400 vendors of takoyaki, kebabs, dried seafood, post-war black-market origin.

OrderTakoyaki, okonomiyaki, kebab, dried fish

TipSaturday afternoons are jammed; weekday mornings stay calm. The takoyaki stalls and Turkish kebab counters are the lunch picks.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Monjayaki makes more sense with someone from Tokyo explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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