Yakitori is Tokyo's grilled chicken skewer over binchotan charcoal: every part of the bird (thigh, breast, liver, gizzard, tail, skin) seasoned with salt or tare sauce.
Yakitori began as Edo-period street food and became a postwar yokocho staple. Toshihiro Wada's Bird Land moved to Ginza in 2002 and helped kick off the high-end overhaul with shamo free-range chicken from Ibaraki and binchotan grilling. Today the form runs the full price spectrum, from 200-yen sticks in Omoide Yokocho to 30,000-yen omakase courses in Ginza basements.
Omoide Yokocho in Tokyo's Shinjuku is the post-war yakitori alley north of the west exit. 70 stalls of grilled chicken, offal skewers, ramen and highballs.
OrderYakitori, motsuyaki offal, ramen
TipBring cash. Most stalls seat six to eight; arrive by 17:30 for the best counter seats before the after-work rush.
Harmonica Yokocho in Tokyo's Kichijoji is the post-war alley behind the JR north exit. 100-plus tiny stalls of yakitori, oden, standing sushi and craft beer.
OrderYakitori, oden, standing sushi, motsu nikomi
TipIseya yakitori main shop is around the corner; the alley itself is the better stand-up dinner crawl after 19:00.
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