The restaurants worth a reservation in Hiroshima, from neighbourhood bistros to the new classics.
The restaurants worth the trip in Hiroshima. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.
Mitchan Sohonten in Hiroshima layers cabbage, pork and crisped soba on the teppan at its Hatchobori flagship, the shop whose founder set the postwar template.
Signature: Soba niku-tama, Udon niku-tama, Grilled oysters
Order: Soba niku-tama, the layered pork, cabbage and noodle okonomiyaki
Tip: The counter seats fill before 12:00 on weekends, so arrive at opening or plan a late lunch after 14:00 instead.
Yagenbori Hassho is the Hiroshima okonomiyaki counter that works slowly, resting the cabbage under pork belly for 20 to 30 minutes before the soba lands.
Signature: Soba niku-tama, Teppanyaki ox tongue
Order: Soba niku-tama at 1,150 yen, the only order most regulars ever place
Tip: Cooking takes 20 to 30 minutes per griddle cake, so this is a sit-down dinner rather than a quick stop.
Kakibune Kanawa moors on the Motoyasu river in Hiroshima and serves oysters from the family's own rafts, raw downstairs and in courses above.
Signature: Oyster course, Fried oysters, Grilled oysters
Order: The oyster course, built around raft-grown Seto Inland Sea oysters
Tip: The kaki-zukushi course on the Seto boat runs 9,000 yen and is worth booking ahead; raw, fried and grilled plates are ordered a la carte at both services.
Kaki Goya Fukuromachi Umihei Shoten keeps Hiroshima's fisherman-hut oyster format running indoors all year, one kilo of shells steamed in a can.
Signature: Can-steamed oysters, Fried oysters, Oyster hot pot
Order: The kilo of oysters steam-grilled in a can over the burner
Tip: Unlike the seasonal huts on the waterfront this branch runs year round, but the oysters are still plumpest between October and March.
Yakiniku Furusato in Hiroshima is a butcher first and a grill second, cutting Sakakiyama beef to order behind the counter in the Danbara district.
Signature: Sakakiyama beef lean cuts, Yaki-suki, Seared beef sushi
Order: The chef's four-cut lean selection of Sakakiyama beef
Tip: Weekday daytime is takeaway bento and raw meat sales only, so book a table for the evening or come at lunch on a weekend.
Sensui gathers kaiseki, teppanyaki and a sushi counter on one floor of the Hilton in Hiroshima, with private rooms for the seasonal courses.
Signature: Kaiseki course, Teppanyaki, Sushi counter
Order: The seasonal kaiseki course, from 10,000 yen at dinner
Tip: Lunch runs from 3,800 yen with courses from 6,500 yen, the cheapest way to see the kitchen, but private rooms carry their own minimum spend.
Steak and Seafood Boston sits 22 floors above Motoujina in Hiroshima, pairing grilled beef and Seto Inland Sea catch with a full bay window.
Signature: Steak, Seto Inland Sea seafood
Order: Steak with a Seto Inland Sea seafood starter and the bay view
Tip: Lunch from 3,900 yen buys the same view as a 10,500 yen dinner, but the room closes for lunch on Wednesdays.
MoreThan Hiroshima runs from breakfast to late dinner on the ground floor of The Knot, an Italian kitchen with an all-day counter in Otemachi.
Signature: Italian plates, All-day breakfast
Order: Morning plates before 10:00 or the evening Italian menu after 17:00
Tip: The kitchen splits into four services a day, so check which one you are walking into before you sit down at the counter.
Sky Dining RIHGA TOP looks over Hiroshima from the 33rd floor of the Rihga Royal, running breakfast, lunch, an afternoon cafe and dinner from one room.
Signature: A la carte dinner plates, Cafe service
Order: Whatever is on the a la carte list, taken at a window table after sunset
Tip: The cafe service from 10:00 to 17:30 is the cheapest way to get a window seat at this height in the city.
JoGeSaYu is the fully plant-based kitchen near Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima, rebuilding ramen, curry and katsudon without animal products.
Signature: Vegan ramen, Vegan curry, Vegan katsudon
Order: The vegan katsudon, rebuilt without egg or animal stock
Tip: The room opens at 07:30 for a morning service, which is unusual for a plant-based kitchen in western Japan.
The Orizuru Tower branch of Mitchan Sohonten faces the A-Bomb Dome in Hiroshima and adds oysters, conger eel and local beef steak to the teppan menu.
Signature: Oyster okonomiyaki, Hiroshima beef steak, Koune
Order: Okonomiyaki with Hiroshima oysters, noodles, pork and egg
Tip: Sitting beside the Orizuru Tower entrance, this branch is the easiest Mitchan to reach straight from Peace Memorial Park.
Reichan has griddled okonomiyaki since 1957 and now works the ekie concourse at Hiroshima Station, open from late morning until the last trains.
Signature: Soba okonomiyaki, Ika kyodai
Order: Ika kyodai, grilled squid and squid tempura on one griddle cake
Tip: Sitting in ekie just outside the ticket gates, this is the one okonomiyaki counter that still works for a 21:00 shinkansen connection.