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OkonomiyakiHatchobori
Mitchan Sohonten in Hiroshima layers cabbage, pork and crisped soba on the teppan at its Hatchobori flagship, the shop whose founder set the postwar template.
OrderSoba niku-tama, the layered pork, cabbage and noodle okonomiyaki
TipThe counter seats fill before 12:00 on weekends, so arrive at opening or plan a late lunch after 14:00 instead.
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OkonomiyakiYagenbori
Yagenbori Hassho is the Hiroshima okonomiyaki counter that works slowly, resting the cabbage under pork belly for 20 to 30 minutes before the soba lands.
OrderSoba niku-tama at 1,150 yen, the only order most regulars ever place
TipCooking takes 20 to 30 minutes per griddle cake, so this is a sit-down dinner rather than a quick stop.
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Oyster barOtemachi
Kakibune Kanawa moors on the Motoyasu river in Hiroshima and serves oysters from the family's own rafts, raw downstairs and in courses above.
OrderThe oyster course, built around raft-grown Seto Inland Sea oysters
TipThe kaki-zukushi course on the Seto boat runs 9,000 yen and is worth booking ahead; raw, fried and grilled plates are ordered a la carte at both services.
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Oyster barFukuromachi
Kaki Goya Fukuromachi Umihei Shoten keeps Hiroshima's fisherman-hut oyster format running indoors all year, one kilo of shells steamed in a can.
OrderThe kilo of oysters steam-grilled in a can over the burner
TipUnlike the seasonal huts on the waterfront this branch runs year round, but the oysters are still plumpest between October and March.
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YakinikuMinami Ku
Yakiniku Furusato in Hiroshima is a butcher first and a grill second, cutting Sakakiyama beef to order behind the counter in the Danbara district.
OrderThe chef's four-cut lean selection of Sakakiyama beef
TipWeekday daytime is takeaway bento and raw meat sales only, so book a table for the evening or come at lunch on a weekend.
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KaisekiOtemachi
Sensui gathers kaiseki, teppanyaki and a sushi counter on one floor of the Hilton in Hiroshima, with private rooms for the seasonal courses.
OrderThe seasonal kaiseki course, from 10,000 yen at dinner
TipLunch runs from 3,800 yen with courses from 6,500 yen, the cheapest way to see the kitchen, but private rooms carry their own minimum spend.
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SteakhouseMinami Ku
Steak and Seafood Boston sits 22 floors above Motoujina in Hiroshima, pairing grilled beef and Seto Inland Sea catch with a full bay window.
OrderSteak with a Seto Inland Sea seafood starter and the bay view
TipLunch from 3,900 yen buys the same view as a 10,500 yen dinner, but the room closes for lunch on Wednesdays.
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ItalianOtemachi
MoreThan Hiroshima runs from breakfast to late dinner on the ground floor of The Knot, an Italian kitchen with an all-day counter in Otemachi.
OrderMorning plates before 10:00 or the evening Italian menu after 17:00
TipThe kitchen splits into four services a day, so check which one you are walking into before you sit down at the counter.
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Modern EuropeanOtemachi
Sky Dining RIHGA TOP looks over Hiroshima from the 33rd floor of the Rihga Royal, running breakfast, lunch, an afternoon cafe and dinner from one room.
OrderWhatever is on the a la carte list, taken at a window table after sunset
TipThe cafe service from 10:00 to 17:30 is the cheapest way to get a window seat at this height in the city.
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VeganOtemachi
JoGeSaYu is the fully plant-based kitchen near Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima, rebuilding ramen, curry and katsudon without animal products.
OrderThe vegan katsudon, rebuilt without egg or animal stock
TipThe room opens at 07:30 for a morning service, which is unusual for a plant-based kitchen in western Japan.
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OkonomiyakiOtemachi
The Orizuru Tower branch of Mitchan Sohonten faces the A-Bomb Dome in Hiroshima and adds oysters, conger eel and local beef steak to the teppan menu.
OrderOkonomiyaki with Hiroshima oysters, noodles, pork and egg
TipSitting beside the Orizuru Tower entrance, this branch is the easiest Mitchan to reach straight from Peace Memorial Park.
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OkonomiyakiEkimae
Reichan has griddled okonomiyaki since 1957 and now works the ekie concourse at Hiroshima Station, open from late morning until the last trains.
OrderIka kyodai, grilled squid and squid tempura on one griddle cake
TipSitting in ekie just outside the ticket gates, this is the one okonomiyaki counter that still works for a 21:00 shinkansen connection.