The places in Hiroshima the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.

Off the beaten plate

Lopez ★ 4.6

¥¥ OkonomiyakiNishi Ku

Lopez sits well outside the Hiroshima okonomiyaki tourist circuit in Kusunoki-cho, and it closes all weekend, which keeps the counter firmly local.

OrderVegetables, pork, egg and soba with jalapenos on top

Why locals goA Guatemalan cook running an okonomiyaki griddle in a residential corner of Nishi-ku, open weeknights only and never at the weekend.

TipThe shop opens at 16:30 on weekdays and shuts Saturday and Sunday, so it never appears on a weekend itinerary.

Kitchen Minot ★ 4.3

¥¥ Modern EuropeanHatchobori

Kitchen Minot in Hiroshima runs an unfixed menu between European plates and Japanese small dishes, from two tables and a counter that wraps the kitchen.

OrderThe squid fritters, if they are on that night

Why locals goTwo tables and a counter on a Hatchobori side street, with a menu that changes so often it is never written down.

TipThemed curry and savoury pie evenings run on alternating months, announced only to people already in the room.

Social Book Cafe Hachidorisha ★ 4.3

¥ CaféDohashi

Hachidorisha is a Hiroshima book cafe built around peace-education titles, and it opens from 11:00 on any date containing a six, whatever the weekday.

OrderFilter coffee with whatever lunch plate is on that weekend

Why locals goA peace-education book cafe near Dohashi that opens on a calendar rule rather than normal cafe hours.

TipClosed Mondays and Tuesdays unless the date contains a six, which is the shop's nod to the sixth of August.

Kissa Saeki ★ 4.3

¥ CaféKamiyacho

Kissa Saeki looks like any other Hiroshima kissaten from the door, but the kitchen behind it is organic, additive-free and very largely plant-based.

OrderThe vegan salad set, served 10:00 to 11:00 only

Why locals goAn old Kamiyacho coffee house that quietly rebuilt itself around organic produce and a largely vegan kitchen.

TipThe room keeps kissaten hours and closes by 17:00 at weekends, so this is a morning or early-afternoon stop.

Akam Coffee Works ★ 4.1

¥ Specialty coffeeOtemachi

Akam Coffee Works is the Hiroshima roaster most visitors walk past, a small Kokutaiji-machi counter that supplies beans to cafes right across the city.

OrderA bag of the current single-origin roast to take home

Why locals goA one-room Kokutaiji-machi roastery selling green beans and wholesale kilos as readily as cups.

TipGreen unroasted beans and one-kilo wholesale bags are both sold here, which is unusual at this scale.

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