Hiroshima oysters crumbed in panko and deep-fried until the coating cracks and the oyster inside is still barely set, served with shredded cabbage and tartare sauce.

Fried oysters are a yoshoku dish, part of the Western-influenced cooking that entered Japan from the late nineteenth century, and Hiroshima adopted them wholesale because the raw material was on its doorstep. In the prefecture they are a winter staple rather than a novelty, sold in oyster restaurants, kaki-goya sheds and ordinary teishoku counters between roughly October and March. The local convention is a coarse panko crust and a very short fry, so the oyster keeps its liquor rather than shrinking into the coating.

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