Okonomiyaki¥¥nishi-kuMon-Fri 16:30-23:00, last order 22:30; closed Saturday and Sunday
Lopez in Hiroshima is run by a Guatemalan okonomiyaki cook in Kusunoki-cho, and the jalapenos on the griddle are the reason people cross town.
Signature: Jalapeno okonomiyaki, Chili Rio Grande
Order: Vegetables, pork and egg with soba, plus jalapenos on top
Tip: The counter is small, opens only in the evening from 16:30 and shuts all weekend, so plan a weeknight visit.
Okonomiyaki¥¥ekimaeDaily 11:00-22:00, last order 21:30
Reichan is the veteran okonomiyaki counter inside ekie at Hiroshima Station, running from late morning through to the last shinkansen crowd of the day.
Signature: Soba okonomiyaki, Ika kyodai
Order: Soba okonomiyaki, 790 yen with noodles
Tip: Squid and prawn toppings are the house extras here; the plain soba version is the fastest plate off the griddle.
Ramen¥shintenchiDaily 11:30-15:00, 18:00-22:00; closed Wednesday
Bakudanya is the Shintenchi shop that pushed Hiroshima tsukemen beyond the city: cold noodles dipped in a chilli and seafood-stock sauce you grade yourself.
Signature: Hiroshima tsukemen
Order: Hiroshima tsukemen, choosing your own heat level
Tip: The dipping sauce comes in graded heat steps, so order low on a first visit and add chilli powder at the table.
Ramen¥ebaDaily 11:30-13:30, 18:00-23:00; closed on the 1st, 12th, 13th and 26th of each month
Chukasoba Youki has cooked one dish in Eba since 1958, and its soy and pork-bone bowl is exactly what Hiroshima people mean when they say chuka soba.
Signature: Chuka soba
Order: Chuka soba, the only thing the kitchen makes
Tip: The Eba flagship shuts on the 1st, 12th, 13th and 26th of each month, so check the date before crossing the river.
Ramen¥otemachiMon and Wed-Sun 11:00-15:00, 18:00-22:00; Fri-Sat dinner to 00:00; closed Tuesday
Musashibo serves Hiroshima's broth-free tantanmen a short walk from the Chudenmae tram stop, ordered by vending machine and graded by heat at no extra cost.
Signature: Shirunashi tantanmen
Order: Shirunashi tantanmen, stirred thirty times before eating
Tip: Heat runs on a four-step scale with level two as the house standard, and stepping up costs nothing extra.
Ramen¥minami-kuDaily 11:30-15:00; dinner 17:30-22:00, Fri-Sat to 00:00; no dinner service on Tuesday
Mongoi-tei in Tanna builds a chicken, pork and seafood broth finished with dried fish and prawn oil, one of Hiroshima's busiest late ramen rooms.
Signature: Seafood tonkotsu ramen
Order: The seafood tonkotsu ramen with extra dried-fish oil
Tip: The Tanna flagship sits south of the centre near Ujina, and it runs lunch every day but shuts the dinner service on Tuesdays.