Fresh bigoli, a thick pasta, with duck ragu: arna or anara is duck in dialect. Osteria al Duca lists a donkey-ragu version, and Sottoriva 23 serves a duck one.

Italian Wikipedia describes bigoli as a pasta of soft wheat flour, water and salt, traditionally pressed through a hand-operated press, and places their origin in the province of Padua, with a spread across the Veneto, Trentino and eastern Lombardy. The duck ragu is called bigoi co l'anara or co l'arna. In Verona, Al Bersagliere, Osteria da Ugo, Arco dei Gavi and Ostregheteria Sottoriva 23 list a duck version, and Osteria al Duca lists bigoli al torchio with donkey ragu.

Where to eat Bigoli con l'arna in Verona

5 editor picks for Bigoli con l'arna in Verona, ranked by editorial score. All Verona signature dishes · Bigoli con l'arna across every city.

Make it at home

Serves 43 hrIntermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g bigoli pasta (or thick whole-wheat spaghetti as substitute)
  • 1 duck (about 1.8 kg), jointed (or 600g duck legs)
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, finely chopped
  • 2 celery stalks, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 200ml Valpolicella Classico
  • 400g tinned plum tomatoes, crushed
  • 500ml chicken broth
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 sprig fresh rosemary
  • 60g unsalted butter
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 60g grated Monte Veronese DOP or aged Parmigiano

Method

  1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the duck pieces skin-side down for 8 to 10 minutes, then turn and brown 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate.
  2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat. Add the remaining tablespoon oil, the onion, carrots and celery; sweat 8 to 10 minutes until softened.
  3. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Pour in the wine and reduce by half (3 to 4 minutes).
  4. Add the tomatoes, broth, bay leaves and rosemary. Return the duck and any juices.
  5. Cover and braise at 160C for 2 to 2.5 hours until the duck falls off the bone.
  6. Remove the duck, discard the skin and bones, and shred the meat. Strain and reduce the sauce 10 minutes to a thick ragu consistency.
  7. Return the shredded duck to the sauce. Beat in the cold butter to finish. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
  8. Cook the bigoli in salted water until al dente (10 to 12 minutes). Drain, reserving 100ml pasta water.
  9. Toss the pasta with the ragu in a wide pan, adding splashes of pasta water as needed. Serve immediately with the grated cheese.

Editor tip. The bigolaro bronze press is the unique Veronese tool; if you don't have one, thick whole-wheat spaghetti is the closest substitute for the texture.

Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs.