History

Bigoli is the Veneto's signature noodle, traditionally extruded through a bronze bigolaro press dating to the Scaligeri court (13th to 14th century). The duck-ragu pairing (bigoli con l'arna) is Verona's farm-table version, sometimes called bigoli con musso (donkey-meat sauce) in the working-class variation. The Sunday-lunch tradition still holds: most Verona trattorias offer the dish daily but make it the lead Sunday plate.

Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g bigoli pasta (or thick whole-wheat spaghetti as substitute)
  • 1 duck (about 1.8 kg), jointed (or 600g duck legs)
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, finely chopped
  • 2 celery stalks, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 200ml Valpolicella Classico
  • 400g tinned plum tomatoes, crushed
  • 500ml chicken broth
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 sprig fresh rosemary
  • 60g unsalted butter
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 60g grated Monte Veronese DOP or aged Parmigiano

Method

  1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the duck pieces skin-side down for 8 to 10 minutes, then turn and brown 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate.
  2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat. Add the remaining tablespoon oil, the onion, carrots and celery; sweat 8 to 10 minutes until softened.
  3. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Pour in the wine and reduce by half (3 to 4 minutes).
  4. Add the tomatoes, broth, bay leaves and rosemary. Return the duck and any juices.
  5. Cover and braise at 160C for 2 to 2.5 hours until the duck falls off the bone.
  6. Remove the duck, discard the skin and bones, and shred the meat. Strain and reduce the sauce 10 minutes to a thick ragu consistency.
  7. Return the shredded duck to the sauce. Beat in the cold butter to finish. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
  8. Cook the bigoli in salted water until al dente (10 to 12 minutes). Drain, reserving 100ml pasta water.
  9. Toss the pasta with the ragu in a wide pan, adding splashes of pasta water as needed. Serve immediately with the grated cheese.

Tip from the editors. The bigolaro bronze press is the unique Veronese tool; if you don't have one, thick whole-wheat spaghetti is the closest substitute for the texture.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat bigoli con l'arna

Bigoli con l'arna in Verona

Trattoria Al Bersagliere ★ 4.5

Family Veronese Since 1928€€Citta Antica

Trattoria Al Bersagliere in Verona is the family-run 1928 trattoria in Borgo dei Filippini. Editor pick on TableJourney with address and what to order.

Signature: Bigoli con l'arna, Pastissada de caval, Tagliere

Tip: The bigoli con l'arna and pastissada are reference Veronese plates; lunch with primo, secondo and a glass runs about €32.

Via Dietro Pallone 1, 37121 Verona Book →

Antica Bottega del Vino ★ 4.7

Italian€€Until Kitchen to 23:30, bar to 24:00

Antica Bottega del Vino in Verona runs the city's kitchen latest. A 2026 TableJourney editor pick with address, hours and what to order inside the entry.

Try: Pastissada de caval with a glass of Amarone

Tip: Post-opera (after 22:30) is the sweet spot; the back dining room takes walk-ins.

Vicolo Scudo di Francia 3, 37121 Verona

Trattoria Arco dei Gavi ★ 4.4

Italian€€

Trattoria Arco dei Gavi on Corso Cavour in San Zeno is the rustic 20-seat trattoria for the residential crowd, pouring only Valpolicella Classico.

Why locals love it: Rustic 20-seat spot south of the pedestrian zone in residential San Zeno where non-locals are rare.

Tip: Book 4 days ahead; the 20 seats fill from regulars and the kitchen runs only Valpolicella Classico on the wine list.

Corso Cavour 36, 37121 Verona

Trattoria al Cristo ★ 4.2

Italian€€

Trattoria al Cristo on Piazzetta Pescheria behind Piazza delle Erbe is the locals-only osteria pouring Soave and plating Veronese pearà bollito on Sundays.

Why locals love it: Behind Piazza delle Erbe on the old Pescheria fish-market square; the location is two minutes from the tourist crush but the room is locals only.

Tip: Book 24 hours ahead for the pearà bollito on Sundays October to March; midweek lunch is walk-in friendly with no booking needed.

Piazzetta Pescheria 6, 37121 Verona

Osteria al Duca ★ 4.3

Italian€

Osteria al Duca in Verona's medieval Casa dei Montecchi runs pastissada de caval with polenta for €14 to 18. A 2026 TableJourney editor pick.

Try: Pastissada de caval with polenta

Tip: Walk in by 12:30 for lunch; the daily set with primo, secondo and water runs about €20.

Via Arche Scaligere 2, 37121 Verona Book →

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