Caribbean€€centro-storico
Ex Salumeria - La Bottega del Rum in Naples' Centro Storico is the converted delicatessen that has run a Caribbean-rum-led bar since 2012, with house Ron.
Order: Ron Especiado rum flight and a board of rum-friendly cicchetti.
Why locals love it: A 2012 conversion of a tiny salumeria into a rum-and-cicchetti bar on a narrow vico off Via Tribunali, with a wood-and-barrels interior and a counter aquarium.
Tip: Open evenings until 02:00. Cash and card both work. Ask for the Ron Especiado house infusions, the spice flight is the introduction.
Italian€€centro-storico
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern ragu specialist that runs seven rooms on separate streets, with the Sunday-ragu ritual available daily.
Order: Paccheri al ragu napoletano with bread to mop the sauce.
Why locals love it: Seven rooms on separate streets across the centro storico run the same ragu napoletano carte from noon to midnight.
Tip: No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30. The paccheri al ragu is 6 euros; bread for mopping is included.
Bakery€€centro-storico
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930 in a side-street that is invisible from the main road, the city's best-value pastry.
Order: Sfogliatella riccia freshly fried, eaten standing, the riccia hot from the fryer.
Why locals love it: On a tiny side-street one block from Napoli Centrale, Attanasio is completely unmarked from the station forecourt.
Tip: Closed Monday. Cash only. Queue 09:00-11:00; the sfogliatella riccia at 2 euros is the only order you need.
Italian€€vomero
Osteria Donna Teresa in Naples' Vomero has run a verbal daily menu since 1913, with no printed carte and no signage, serving Vomero workers a 12-euro.
Order: Meatballs al sugo and pasta e patate con provola; ask the server about the daily fish.
Why locals love it: On a Vomero backstreet (Via Kerbaker 58) far from the tourist circuits, Donna Teresa has run since 1913 on a verbal menu dictated daily.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Arrive by 13:00 for lunch and ask the server what is on today; the meatballs and anchovies are the constants.
Italian€€centro-storico
Osteria da Carmela in Naples' Centro Storico near the Archaeological Museum has cooked the daily Neapolitan carte since 1967, a 25-cover room that remains.
Order: Seafood pasta of the day and whatever fritto they are serving from the morning market.
Why locals love it: A no-sign basement on Via Conte di Ruvo near the Archaeological Museum, Osteria da Carmela has fed locals since 1967 in a room that fits 25 covers and turns away walk-ins most.
Tip: Book two days ahead by phone (+39 081 549 9738); the room fills with regulars by 13:15 and 20:30.
Pizzeria€€sanita
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining room that most tourists never reach, with tasting menus of six small.
Order: The five-pizza tasting menu, especially the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
Why locals love it: Deep in the Rione Sanita, a neighbourhood most visitors skip, Ciro Oliva's pizzeria sits beside a street shrine on a cobbled backstreet.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; the tasting menu at 45 euros is the entry point. Walking into the Sanita is the reward in itself.
