Pizzeria€€sanita
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining room that most tourists never reach, with tasting menus of six small.
Order: The five-pizza tasting menu, especially the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
Why locals love it: Deep in the Rione Sanita, a neighbourhood most visitors skip, Ciro Oliva's pizzeria sits beside a street shrine on a cobbled backstreet.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; the tasting menu at 45 euros is the entry point. Walking into the Sanita is the reward in itself.
Wine bar€€centro-storico
Salumeria Upnea in Naples' Centro Storico is the deli-bistro hybrid pouring Campania natural wines alongside daily-changing salumi boards and pasta.
Order: The salumi flight, caciocavallo impiccato with grilled bread, glass of Falanghina.
Why locals love it: On a Centro Storico side street off Via Mezzocannone, Upnea draws food-world visitors for its Campania natural wine list and daily-changing salumi boards.
Tip: Closed Monday. Walk-in counter for the early salumi order; book the back room for four-plus.
Bakery€€sanita
Poppella in Naples' Sanita is the original branch of the fiocco di neve bakery, a 1920 family pasticceria in a neighbourhood most tourists avoid.
Order: Fiocco di neve (snow-flake cream brioche) at 1 euro 50, the original 2014 recipe.
Why locals love it: The original Poppella sits at the bottom of the Sanita, the neighbourhood that most Naples guides skip.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-22:00. The Sanita original bakes the same fiocco di neve as the other branches but at a gentler pace.
Caribbean€€centro-storico
Ex Salumeria - La Bottega del Rum in Naples' Centro Storico is the converted delicatessen that has run a Caribbean-rum-led bar since 2012, with house Ron.
Order: Ron Especiado rum flight and a board of rum-friendly cicchetti.
Why locals love it: A 2012 conversion of a tiny salumeria into a rum-and-cicchetti bar on a narrow vico off Via Tribunali, with a wood-and-barrels interior and a counter aquarium.
Tip: Open evenings until 02:00. Cash and card both work. Ask for the Ron Especiado house infusions, the spice flight is the introduction.
Italian€€centro-storico
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern ragu specialist that runs seven rooms on separate streets, with the Sunday-ragu ritual available daily.
Order: Paccheri al ragu napoletano with bread to mop the sauce.
Why locals love it: Seven rooms on separate streets across the centro storico run the same ragu napoletano carte from noon to midnight.
Tip: No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30. The paccheri al ragu is 6 euros; bread for mopping is included.
Bakery€€centro-storico
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930 in a side-street that is invisible from the main road, the city's best-value pastry.
Order: Sfogliatella riccia freshly fried, eaten standing, the riccia hot from the fryer.
Why locals love it: On a tiny side-street one block from Napoli Centrale, Attanasio is completely unmarked from the station forecourt.
Tip: Closed Monday. Cash only. Queue 09:00-11:00; the sfogliatella riccia at 2 euros is the only order you need.
