Naples' long-cooked Sunday meat sauce: pork ribs, beef rolls and sausage braised four to eight hours in tomato until the fat rises and the sauce turns brick-red, served over paccheri or ziti spezzati.
Ragu napoletano traces to the Spanish viceregal period of Naples (1503 to 1707), when slow-cooking tough cuts in tomato became embedded in the city's cucina povera. It remains the Sunday centrepiece of Neapolitan family cooking, started Saturday evening to be ready by midday Mass on Sunday. The canonical restaurant versions today are at Tandem Ragu and Trattoria Nennella in the Quartieri Spagnoli.
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking.
OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Seven Tandem rooms across the centro storico share the carte.
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