Parmigiana di Melanzane
Photo: Flickr.com user "Blue Lotus" · CC BY 2.0

Neapolitan eggplant parmigiana: thin slices of fried eggplant layered with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh fior di latte mozzarella, grated parmigiano reggiano and basil, baked until bubbling golden.

Parmigiana di melanzane has been a Naples dish since at least the 18th century, with documented Neapolitan cookbook recipes from 1773. The name likely derives from the Sicilian-Arabic parmiciana (overlapping wooden slats, referring to the layered construction). The dish is one of Italy's strongest regional disputes between Naples (which uses fior di latte mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes and never breads the eggplant) and Sicily (which often uses provola and may bread the eggplant). The Neapolitan version is canonical for the Bay of Naples; Trattoria Nennella and Tandem Ragu run benchmark versions.

4 editor picks for Parmigiana di Melanzane in Naples, ranked by editorial score. All Naples signature dishes · Parmigiana di Melanzane across every city.

Ristorante Umberto ★ 4.4

€€Neapolitan Trattoria, SeafoodChiaia

Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and the spaghetti alle vongole.

OrderTubettoni do treddeta (the house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.

TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.

Tandem Ragu ★ 4.4

€€Neapolitan Ragu SpecialistCentro Storico

Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking.

OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.

TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Seven Tandem rooms across the centro storico share the carte.

Trattoria Nennella ★ 4.3

€Neapolitan Trattoria, Working-classQuartieri Spagnoli

Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs the most theatrical service in town: shouted orders, plastic stools, 13-euro three-course lunch.

OrderPasta e patate con provola, polpette al sugo, the daily Quartieri Spagnoli antipasto.

TipNo bookings, cash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. Closed Sunday all day.

Da Ettore ★ 4.0

€€Neapolitan Trattoria, PizzaChiaia

Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas.

OrderPagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.

TipClosed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; the pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Parmigiana di Melanzane makes more sense with someone from Naples explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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