Where to eat Pastiera Napoletana in Naples: 3 editor picks
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Photo: Mattia Luigi Nappi (Mattia Luigi Nappi) · CC BY-SA 3.0
Pastiera napoletana: a short-crust tart filled with cooked grain, ricotta, eggs, candied citrus, cinnamon and orange-flower water under a lattice top, traditionally made on Holy Thursday for Easter.
Pastiera's origins are traced to pagan spring fertility rites on the Gulf of Naples, though the recipe as we know it emerged in the convents of the Annunziata and San Gregorio Armeno in 17th-century Naples. The tart is so anchored to Easter that Neapolitans say it is the dish that makes the queen cry (from happiness, not sorrow).
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1905, with the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) the house.
TipOpen daily 07:00-21:00. Ministeriale is 4 euros at the counter; sfogliatella riccia 2 euros 50.
Gran Caffe Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples (1860) is the city's defining morning ritual, with the counter espresso and hot sfogliatella.
OrderSfogliatella riccia hot from the counter, cioccolata calda in winter.
TipStanding at the counter is one-third the price of the seated terrace. Arrive by 09:30 on weekends before the tour groups.
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