The Neapolitan baba is a tall, mushroom-shaped yeast cake soaked in dark rum syrup until sodden and trembling, served cool with whipped cream or pastry cream alongside, the rum-to-cake ratio a point of civic pride.
The baba reached Naples in the 18th century via the French court (itself imported from Poland by King Stanislaw Leszczynski); Neapolitan pastry makers adopted it and over two centuries made it their own, increasing the rum soaking and shrinking the size until today's individual baba napoletano bears little resemblance to the original.
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1905, with the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) the house.
TipOpen daily 07:00-21:00. Ministeriale is 4 euros at the counter; sfogliatella riccia 2 euros 50.
Gran Caffe Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples (1860) is the city's defining morning ritual, with the counter espresso and hot sfogliatella.
OrderSfogliatella riccia hot from the counter, cioccolata calda in winter.
TipStanding at the counter is one-third the price of the seated terrace. Arrive by 09:30 on weekends before the tour groups.
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