Parmigiana di Melanzane
Photo: Flickr.com user "Blue Lotus" · CC BY 2.0

History

Parmigiana di melanzane has been a Naples dish since at least the 18th century, with documented Neapolitan cookbook recipes from 1773. The name likely derives from the Sicilian-Arabic parmiciana (overlapping wooden slats, referring to the layered construction). The dish is one of Italy's strongest regional disputes between Naples (which uses fior di latte mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes and never breads the eggplant) and Sicily (which often uses provola and may bread the eggplant). The Neapolitan version is canonical for the Bay of Naples; Trattoria Nennella and Tandem Ragu run benchmark versions.

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Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 1 hrTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 2kg medium globe eggplants (about 4 to 5)
  • Coarse sea salt for purging
  • Sunflower oil for shallow-frying (about 500ml)
  • For the tomato sauce: 1kg San Marzano DOP tinned tomatoes
  • 4 garlic cloves (smashed)
  • 80ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 small bunch fresh basil
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • pinch of sugar
  • 500g fresh fior di latte mozzarella (the proper Naples cow-milk mozzarella; or buffalo mozzarella if you can stretch the budget), torn by hand into rough pieces
  • 200g freshly grated parmigiano reggiano (aged 24 months minimum)
  • Large handful of fresh basil leaves (15 to 20 leaves)
  • Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Method

  1. Slice the eggplants lengthways into 5mm thick slices.
  2. Layer the eggplant slices in a colander, salting each layer generously; weigh down with a plate and bowl, and let drain over the sink for 60 minutes (this is the structural step that removes bitterness and water; do not skip).
  3. While the eggplant drains, make the tomato sauce: heat the olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat, add the smashed garlic and cook 2 minutes until fragrant. Pour in the tinned tomatoes (crushed by hand), add a few basil leaves, salt and a pinch of sugar; simmer 25 minutes until thickened. Remove garlic. Tear in more fresh basil. Keep warm.
  4. Rinse the salted eggplant under cold water and pat very dry on a clean tea towel (any moisture spits in the oil).
  5. Heat the sunflower oil in a wide deep pan to 175 degrees Celsius. Fry the eggplant slices in batches of 4 to 5, for 2 to 3 minutes per side until deep gold. Drain on paper, layered between sheets to absorb excess oil.
  6. Place the torn mozzarella in a colander to drain off excess water for 15 minutes; this is the structural step to prevent a watery final dish.
  7. Heat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius (180 fan).
  8. Spread 3 tbsp of the tomato sauce in the bottom of a 30 by 20cm baking dish.
  9. Layer: a single layer of fried eggplant slices, then a ladle of tomato sauce spread thinly, then torn mozzarella pieces, then a generous shower of grated parmigiano, then fresh basil leaves. Season with black pepper.
  10. Repeat for 3 to 4 layers total, ending with a final layer of tomato sauce, mozzarella and a generous final dusting of parmigiano. Do not put basil on top (it burns).
  11. Bake at 200 degrees Celsius for 30 to 35 minutes until the top is deep golden brown, bubbling at the edges, and the cheese has melted into glossy pools.
  12. Rest 15 minutes before cutting; this is non-negotiable, the dish needs time to set or it weeps and falls apart on the plate.
  13. Cut into squares and serve warm with a sliver of fresh basil for garnish.

Tip from the editors. The eggplant must be salted and drained to remove bitterness and water; the mozzarella must also be drained or you get a watery final dish. Frying (rather than breading or grilling) is essential for the Naples version; baked or breaded eggplant gives a Sicilian-style dish.

Where to eat parmigiana di melanzane

Parmigiana di Melanzane in Naples

Trattoria Nennella ★ 4.5

€ ItalianQuartieri Spagnoli

Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs a 12-euro three-course lunch with shouted orders, pasta e patate con provola and the daily Quartieri Spagnoli.

TryThree-course working-class lunch

TipCash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner; no bookings.

Directions

Da Ettore ★ 4.3

€€ Neapolitan Trattoria, PizzaChiaia

Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas.

OrderPagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.

TipClosed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.

Directions Book

Ristorante Umberto ★ 4.2

€€€€ Tasting €55SeafoodChiaiaChef Massimo di Porzio

Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and spaghetti alle vongole anchoring.

Book1 week ahead

TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.

Directions Book

Tandem Ragu ★ 4.2

€€ ItalianCentro Storico

Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern ragu specialist that runs seven rooms on separate streets, with the Sunday-ragu ritual available daily.

OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano with bread to mop the sauce.

Why locals goSeven rooms on separate streets across the centro storico run the same ragu napoletano carte from noon to midnight.

TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30. The paccheri al ragu is 6 euros; bread for mopping is included.

Directions

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