Naples' signature meat-and-onion ragu: beef chuck simmered for 4 to 6 hours with an enormous quantity of golden onions until they reduce to a melting brown jam, served over ziti or paccheri pasta.
Genovese ragu is one of Naples' two great pasta ragus alongside the more famous tomato-and-beef ragu napoletano. Despite the name, the dish is wholly Neapolitan; the most credible theory is that 15th-century Genoese merchants in Naples ran taverns serving a related onion-stew dish that local cooks adopted. The structural distinction is the volume of onions: at least 2 to 3 times the weight of the meat, cooked low and slow for 4 to 6 hours until they break down into a thick brown puree. The dish is served exclusively with long tube pasta (ziti or paccheri).
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking.
OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Seven Tandem rooms across the centro storico share the carte.
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and the spaghetti alle vongole.
OrderTubettoni do treddeta (the house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
Genovese (Naples Onion Ragu) makes more sense with someone from Naples explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.
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