Genovese (Naples Onion Ragu)

Method

1. Heat the olive oil in a very large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the diced pancetta and cook 5 minutes until rendered and golden.
2. Add the beef chuck pieces and brown all over for 5 minutes; lift out into a bowl.
3. In the same pot with the rendered fat, add the diced carrots, celery, garlic and cook 8 minutes until softened.
4. Pile in all of the sliced onions; this will fill the pot to the brim, but they will reduce significantly. Add a generous pinch of salt and the sugar.
5. Reduce heat to medium-low, return the browned beef to the pot, and stir to mix with the onions.
6. Cover the pot tightly. Cook on the lowest heat (the onions should sweat, not fry) for 90 minutes, stirring every 20 minutes to make sure nothing catches on the bottom.
7. After 90 minutes, the onions will have released a large amount of liquid; they should be wilted and pale yellow.
8. Uncover the pot, add the white wine and bay leaves; raise heat to medium and let the liquid bubble.
9. Cook uncovered for a further 2 to 3 hours, stirring every 15 minutes, until the onions have reduced to a thick brown jam and the beef shreds easily with a fork.
10. If using the optional small splash of passata, stir in during the last 30 minutes; the Naples version is barely tinged red, not tomato-red.
11. Lift out the beef, shred with two forks into long fibres, and return to the onion sauce. Adjust salt and pepper.
12. Cook the pasta in plenty of salted boiling water until al dente; reserve 200ml pasta water, then drain.
13. Tip the drained pasta into the genovese pot, add a splash of pasta water, and toss vigorously for 60 seconds so the sauce coats every tube.
14. Plate generously in warm bowls, finish with a shower of grated parmigiano, fresh basil leaves and chopped parsley. A glass of Greco di Tufo or Campania red wine alongside.