Where to eat Friarielli con salsiccia in Naples: 6 editor picks
Ranked by TableJourney editorial score.
Neapolitan turnip tops sautéed in olive oil with garlic and chilli, paired with a coil of pork sausage. The Campania pairing of bitter greens and rich meat, eaten with a hunk of bread or stuffed into a Neapolitan pizza.
Friarielli are the immature flowering tops of broccoli rabe (cima di rapa), grown on the volcanic hillsides around Vesuvius. Neapolitan street vendors have sold the dish since at least the 17th century; the canonical pairing with pork sausage emerged in working-class Neapolitan kitchens of the 19th century. The combination appears on every pizza menu as Pizza Friarielli e Salsiccia, and as a standalone secondo at trattorias throughout Naples. Outside Campania, the greens are nearly unobtainable; the Naples version is the canon.
La Locanda Gesu Vecchio on Via Paladino in Naples' Spaccanapoli is Vittorio Fortunato's Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria (opened 2019), with pasta e patate.
OrderPasta e patate con provola, genovese, mezzanelli alla scarpariello in the daily carte.
TipClosed Monday. Tuesday to Sunday 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-23:00 in two seatings (19:00, 21:30). Book ahead even for lunch.
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and the spaghetti alle vongole.
OrderTubettoni do treddeta (the house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking.
OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Seven Tandem rooms across the centro storico share the carte.
Osteria della Mattonella in Naples' Toledo quarter runs the home-style Neapolitan carte with daily pasta specials, polpette napoletane and the genovese.
OrderGenovese pasta, polpette napoletane, pasta e fagioli.
TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a week ahead for weekends; the genovese runs all-day.
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