Neapolitan turnip tops sautéed in olive oil with garlic and chilli, paired with a coil of pork sausage. The Campania pairing of bitter greens and rich meat, eaten with a hunk of bread or stuffed into a Neapolitan pizza.
Where to eat it: 6 restaurants across 1 city.
Friarielli are the immature flowering tops of broccoli rabe (cima di rapa), grown on the volcanic hillsides around Vesuvius. Neapolitan street vendors have sold the dish since at least the 17th century; the canonical pairing with pork sausage emerged in working-class Neapolitan kitchens of the 19th century. The combination appears on every pizza menu as Pizza Friarielli e Salsiccia, and as a standalone secondo at trattorias throughout Naples. Outside Campania, the greens are nearly unobtainable; the Naples version is the canon.
Tours, tastings and classes from the cities on this page, bookable on GetYourGuide.
Guided tour · 2 hours
Learn to make fresh pasta like the grandmothers of Italy during a class at a cooking school inside Florence's medieval tower. Learn every step of the...
2h 30m
Discover the secrets to making authentic homemade pasta and tiramisu from a local chef. The cooking class takes place in a locally loved restaurant,...
3 hours
Roll up your sleeves and discover the flavors of Naples by making authentic pizza and creamy tiramisù with a passionate local chef. Cook, laugh, eat,...
Guided tour · 2h 30m
Experience the flavors of Venice on a guided walking tour. Visit the Rialto Market, try tapas, such as "cicchetti," and admire historical highlights...
Tip from the editors. Salt the blanching water heavily; this is your only chance to season the friarielli through. After blanching, squeeze HARD; wet greens steam not fry.
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs a 12-euro three-course lunch with shouted orders, pasta e patate con provola and the daily Quartieri Spagnoli.
TryThree-course working-class lunch
TipCash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner; no bookings.
Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas.
OrderPagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.
TipClosed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and spaghetti alle vongole anchoring.
Book1 week ahead
TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
La Locanda Gesu Vecchio on Via Paladino in Naples' Spaccanapoli is Vittorio Fortunato's Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria (opened 2019), with pasta e patate.
OrderPasta e patate con provola, genovese, mezzanelli alla scarpariello in the daily carte.
TipClosed Monday. Tuesday to Sunday 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-23:00 in two seatings (19:00, 21:30). Book ahead even for lunch.
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern ragu specialist that runs seven rooms on separate streets, with the Sunday-ragu ritual available daily.
OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano with bread to mop the sauce.
Why locals goSeven rooms on separate streets across the centro storico run the same ragu napoletano carte from noon to midnight.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30. The paccheri al ragu is 6 euros; bread for mopping is included.
Osteria della Mattonella in Naples' Toledo quarter runs the home-style Neapolitan carte with daily pasta specials, polpette napoletane and the genovese.
OrderGenovese pasta, polpette napoletane, pasta e fagioli.
TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a week ahead for weekends; the genovese runs all-day.
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