Cotoletta alla milanese is Milan's defining veal dish: a bone-in veal rib chop, pounded thin, breaded in egg and breadcrumb, and deep-fried in clarified butter to a golden crust.
The cotoletta alla milanese is first recorded in 1134 in a Sant'Ambrogio cathedral banquet manuscript as lumbolos cum panicio, and codified in modern form by Felice Luraschi in 1829. The famed Austro-Hungarian Wiener Schnitzel theory (Marshal Radetzky took the recipe to Vienna in 1857) is now contested; the Milanese version uses bone-in veal, the Viennese boneless. The bone-in 'orecchio di elefante' shape (the elephant ear) is the modern canonical form, pounded thin and the size of the plate. Trattoria Masuelli San Marco, Da Giacomo and Trattoria della Trebbia serve canonical versions; Cracco's modern version uses high-temperature clarified butter at the precise drop point.
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello in Milan's south-east has cooked the Lombard trattoria canon since 1927, near the old slaughterhouse. Located in Porta Romana.
OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese with bone in, and the ossobuco when on the carte.
TipBookings open one month ahead on the website. Lunch is the calmer service; Friday evening fills up first.
Giannino in Milan since 1899 is the historic Lombard dining room near Stazione Centrale, the family-run kitchen that has fed Milan's industrial bourgeoisie.
OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese and the ossobuco con risotto plate.
TipBookings open by phone or website; lunch sittings 12:30 and 13:30. The marble-and-mahogany dining room is the destination.
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