Polenta e bruscitti
Photo: LukeWiller · CC BY-SA 4.0

Polenta e bruscitti is the Lombard slow-braised beef stew: chunks of beef shoulder cooked with red wine, butter and fennel seed for three hours until falling-tender, served on a wide raft of corn polenta.

The bruscitti (literally 'small fragments') of the Busto Arsizio plain north-west of Milan are first recorded in the 1860s as a Sunday dish for the Lombard farming households. The slow braise with butter, red wine and a fennel-seed-and-rosemary aromatic profile is the canonical Northern Lombard preparation. The polenta on the side is the rule, soft polenta in modern restaurants, hard polenta sliced for the classical Lombard farmstead style. Trattoria Masuelli San Marco and Antica Trattoria della Pesa serve canonical versions of the dish in central Milan; Ratana cooks a modernised version with house-pulled polenta.

5 editor picks for Polenta e bruscitti in Milan, ranked by editorial score. All Milan signature dishes · Polenta e bruscitti across every city.

Ratana ★ 4.8

€€€ItalianIsola

Ratana in Milan's Isola district is Cesare Battisti's modern Lombard kitchen, housed in a 19th-century railway building since 2009. Priced at €€€.

OrderThe risotto alla milanese with bone marrow, the cotoletta alla milanese and the ossobuco.

TipBookings open three weeks ahead. Lunch sittings 12:30 and 14:00; dinner from 19:30. The garden is the spot in summer.

Trattoria del Nuovo Macello ★ 4.6

€€Lombard TrattoriaPorta Romana

Trattoria del Nuovo Macello in Milan's south-east has cooked the Lombard trattoria canon since 1927, near the old slaughterhouse. Located in Porta Romana.

OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese with bone in, and the ossobuco when on the carte.

TipBookings open one month ahead on the website. Lunch is the calmer service; Friday evening fills up first.

Trattoria Masuelli San Marco ★ 4.5

€€Lombard TrattoriaPorta Romana

Trattoria Masuelli San Marco in Milan's Porta Romana has cooked the Lombard canon since 1921, family-run by the Masuelli family for four generations.

OrderThe risotto alla milanese with bone marrow, the ossobuco and the cassoeula in winter.

TipBookings open ten days ahead by phone. Cash and card; the wine list runs deep on Lombard producers.

Giannino ★ 4.3

€€€Lombard, Modern ItalianPorta Venezia

Giannino in Milan since 1899 is the historic Lombard dining room near Stazione Centrale, the family-run kitchen that has fed Milan's industrial bourgeoisie.

OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese and the ossobuco con risotto plate.

TipBookings open by phone or website; lunch sittings 12:30 and 13:30. The marble-and-mahogany dining room is the destination.

Antica Trattoria della Pesa ★ 4.2

€€€Lombard TrattoriaIsola

Antica Trattoria della Pesa in Milan's Porta Garibaldi has cooked the Lombard farmstead canon since 1880, set in the old grain-weighing house.

OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the ossobuco and the cassoeula in winter.

TipBookings open one week ahead by phone. The dining room has the original 1880 wood-panel interior; ask for a table by the window.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Polenta e bruscitti makes more sense with someone from Milan explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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