Mondeghili are Milan's leftover-Sunday-roast meatballs: minced beef, raw egg, parmigiano, bread soaked in milk, lemon zest and parsley, formed into small spheres, breaded and pan-fried in butter.
The mondeghili (from the Arabic-Catalan albondiga) are Milan's pre-industrial frugal-cucina dish, recorded in 18th-century Milanese kitchen manuscripts. The dish is the canonical use-up of Sunday's bollito misto leftovers: minced cold beef with stale bread soaked in milk, raw egg, grated parmigiano, a grind of nutmeg and the lemon-parsley garnish that ties to ossobuco's gremolata. The pan-fry in butter (never deep-fried) is the Milanese tell. Da Giacomo, Trattoria Masuelli San Marco and Ratana serve modernised versions; the Mercato Centrale stalls run a 5-euro panino di mondeghili at lunch.
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello in Milan's south-east has cooked the Lombard trattoria canon since 1927, near the old slaughterhouse. Located in Porta Romana.
OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese with bone in, and the ossobuco when on the carte.
TipBookings open one month ahead on the website. Lunch is the calmer service; Friday evening fills up first.
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