Ossobuco alla milanese is Milan's slow-braised veal shank, cut crosswise to keep the marrow in the bone, stewed in white wine with vegetables and finished with a lemon-garlic-parsley gremolata.
The ossobuco (literally 'bone with a hole') is first recorded in 19th-century Milanese trattoria menus as a working-quarter dish that made use of the cheaper veal shank cut. The Pellegrino Artusi 1891 codification calls for tomato in the sauce; the older purist version uses only white wine and brodo. The dish is served on its own or atop a saffron risotto giallo as the canonical riso e oss buss. The gremolata (the lemon zest, garlic and parsley raw garnish at the finish) is the dish's defining note. Trattoria Masuelli San Marco, Ratana, Trattoria del Nuovo Macello and Giannino all serve canonical versions; the marrow on toast is the bonus snack.
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello in Milan's south-east has cooked the Lombard trattoria canon since 1927, near the old slaughterhouse. Located in Porta Romana.
OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese with bone in, and the ossobuco when on the carte.
TipBookings open one month ahead on the website. Lunch is the calmer service; Friday evening fills up first.
Giannino in Milan since 1899 is the historic Lombard dining room near Stazione Centrale, the family-run kitchen that has fed Milan's industrial bourgeoisie.
OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta alla milanese and the ossobuco con risotto plate.
TipBookings open by phone or website; lunch sittings 12:30 and 13:30. The marble-and-mahogany dining room is the destination.
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