Betutu
Photo: casey yancey from brooklyn · CC BY 2.0

Chicken or duck smothered in basa genep spice paste, wrapped in banana leaf and cooked slowly until the meat falls from the bone, then eaten with rice and sambal matah.

Betutu is the Balinese word for a spice mixture of shallots, garlic, turmeric, ginger, galangal, candlenuts, chillies and shrimp paste, and it names the dish: ayam betutu is chicken, bebek betutu duck. Regional styles differ: the bird is stuffed with spices in Klungkung and Karangasem and wrapped in plantain leaf in Gianyar. Cooks traditionally buried the wrapped bird in a pit of embers, up to 24 hours for a duck. Nasi Ayam Kedewatan, near Ubud, has sold betutu chicken rice since 1963.

4 editor picks for Betutu in Bali, ranked by editorial score. All Bali signature dishes · Betutu across every city.

Nasi Bali Men Weti ★ 4.2

$BalineseSanur

Nasi Bali Men Weti serves chicken nasi campur from a plain warung beside Segara Ayu beach in Sanur, Bali, open since the 1970s and busy from early morning.

OrderNasi campur ayam with betutu chicken, fried chicken skin and sate lilit

TipA queue forms from 07:00, an hour before the 08:00 opening. Plates start from about IDR 25,000 and the warung closes at 13:00.

Nasi Ayam Kedewatan Ibu Mangku (Ubud) ★ 4.1

$BalineseUbud

Nasi Ayam Kedewatan Ibu Mangku has sold Balinese chicken rice since 1963 at its original warung on Jalan Raya Kedewatan near Ubud, Bali, from 07:00 to 21:00.

OrderNasi campur ayam with ayam betutu, sate lilit and sayur urap

TipThis is the Ubud original. Branches run in Renon, Seminyak, Jimbaran and Kengetan, and plates start from about IDR 29,000.

Warung Mek Juwel ★ 4.1

$BalineseUbud

Warung Mek Juwel serves one dish, nasi campur ayam with ayam betutu and sate lilit, in a family compound with rice-field views in Sayan near Ubud, Bali.

OrderNasi campur ayam with ayam betutu, sate lilit and sambal matah

TipA plate costs about IDR 30,000. IDN Times Bali reports no pork in the cooking, though pork crackers are sold as a consigned extra.

Warung Indonesia (Kuta) ★ 3.7

$IndonesianKuta Legian

Warung Indonesia serves nasi campur, ayam betutu, sate lilit and nasi goreng in the Poppies Lane II area of Kuta, Bali, from 10:00 to 23:30 every day.

OrderNasi campur, ayam betutu and sate lilit

TipMain dishes cost about IDR 25,000 to 50,000, and the warung also takes large nasi kotak orders. It is within walking distance of Kuta Beach.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Betutu makes more sense with someone from Bali explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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