Bistros, trattorias and the everyday rooms where Mumbai actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Mumbai actually eats.
Britannia in Ballard Estate has poured Iranian zereshk berries over mutton pulao since 1923. Lunchtime only weekdays; Saturday opens until 22:00.
Signature: Berry pulao, Sali boti, Caramel custard
Order: Mutton berry pulao with a side of sali boti.
Tip: Cash only; arrive by 13:00 weekdays or the berry pulao runs out. Closed Sunday.
Jimmy Boy off Horniman Circle runs the Parsi wedding menu daily: patra ni machhi, sali boti, dhansak, akuri, lagan nu custard. Three-generation Parsi family.
Signature: Patra ni machhi, Sali boti, Lagan nu custard
Order: Patra ni machhi and a Pallonji's raspberry soda.
Tip: The Sunday Parsi wedding thali is the order; book ahead for it.
Rahul Akerkar's Indigo Deli on Colaba Causeway runs all day, two minutes from the Gateway. Eggs benedict for breakfast, burger for lunch, sticky toffee.
Signature: Eggs benedict, Indigo burger, Sticky toffee pudding
Order: Eggs benedict at any hour and a sticky toffee for the table.
Tip: The bakery counter sells loaves and danishes from 11:00; come earlier for croissants.
Pinki Dixit's Soam in Chowpatty has run Gujarati and Maharashtrian home cooking since 2005. Saat dana khichdi runs seven grains; undhiyo holds nine.
Signature: Saat dana khichdi, Faraali undhiyo, Bhinda nu shaak
Order: Saat dana khichdi and a glass of chaas.
Tip: Weekend lunches crowd hard; arrive at 12:00 sharp for a counter seat.
Swati Snacks in Tardeo has run family-style Gujarati for three generations. Panki on banana leaves, faraali pattice and seasonal aamras with hot puris.
Signature: Panki, Faraali pattice, Aamras with puri (in season)
Order: Panki on banana leaves and a faraali pattice.
Tip: Aamras season runs March to May; book ahead for weekends in those months.
Cream Centre opened at Chowpatty Seaface in 1958 as a vegetarian sweets and snacks counter. The channa bhatura is the canonical dish; the hot fudge sundae.
Signature: Channa bhatura, Sizzler, Hot fudge sundae
Order: Channa bhatura with a Spanish omelette sizzler and a hot fudge sundae.
Tip: Family-friendly with a high-chair stock; weekday lunches are quietest.
Sukh Sagar at Chowpatty has run a pure-veg multicuisine menu for four decades. Pav bhaji, sandwiches, dosas and the South Indian counter run all day.
Signature: Pav bhaji, Pani puri, Pao bhaji
Order: Pav bhaji and a sweet lassi.
Tip: Crowded counter, table service runs slower; takeaway at the front is faster.
Papa Pancho on Pali Naka serves dhaba-style Punjabi cooking since 1997: sarson da saag, butter chicken, makki rotis and lassi in steel tumblers.
Signature: Sarson da saag with makki di roti, Amritsari fish, Pindi chole
Order: Sarson da saag with makki di roti and a sweet lassi.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; the pork pickle is a take-home favourite.
S C Karkera opened Mumbai's first dedicated Mangalorean room in Fort in 1977. The pomfret hits the tandoor whole; the fish gassi runs with thick coconut.
Signature: Tandoori pomfret, Crab butter pepper garlic, Neer dosa
Order: Tandoori pomfret and neer dosa.
Tip: Order sol kadhi to follow the meal; the kokum drink settles the spice.
Gajalee in Vile Parle East serves Malvani coastal cooking with the koli catch that morning. The thali runs prawns, surmai and crab with sol kadhi.
Signature: Malvani prawn curry, Bombil fry, Surmai tikka
Order: Bombil rava fry and Malvani prawn curry with rice.
Tip: Sol kadhi after the meal cuts the coconut gravies. Cash and card both accepted.
Khyber on MG Road has been a Mumbai Mughlai institution since 1958. The murals run the length of the room and the raan still arrives at the table on a board.
Signature: Raan, Kabab e khas, Murgh malai kabab
Order: Raan for two with mint chutney.
Tip: Lunch sees less wait than dinner; book upstairs for groups. Cash and card both accepted.
Bademiya has run charcoal kebabs behind the Taj since 1946. The street stall pulls midnight queues for baida roti, seekh kabab and chicken tikka rolls.
Signature: Seekh kabab, Baida roti, Chicken tikka roll
Order: Mutton seekh in a baida roti and a chicken tikka roll for the road.
Tip: Street stall runs until 03:00; the indoor sit-down branches close at midnight.
Pancham Puriwala near CSMT has fried puris and served thali to Bombay commuters since 1848. UP migrants who succeeded in the puri trade opened the room.
Signature: Puri sabzi, Pancham thali, Lassi
Order: Pancham thali with the puri-sabzi combo and a sweet lassi.
Tip: Cash easiest; lunch service is fastest before 12:30. Cash and card both accepted.
A Rama Nayak's Udipi Shri Krishna Boarding has run an unlimited South Indian thali in Matunga since 1942. Banana leaves, ghee roast, sambar refills.
Signature: Thali, Mangalorean ghee roast, Filter coffee
Order: The unlimited thali; come hungry.
Tip: Lunch only on weekdays here; book the upstairs hall ahead for groups of six or more guests.
Cafe Mondegar opened in 1932 on Colaba Causeway. The Mario Miranda murals on opposite walls are the room's signature; the Wurlitzer jukebox still works.
Signature: Chicken cafreal, Pork sausage breakfast, Chocolate mousse
Order: Chicken cafreal, a cold beer and the chocolate mousse.
Tip: The Wurlitzer takes coins; bring change for it. Cash and card both accepted.