Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Mumbai actually eats.

Food tour in Mumbai

Mumbai Street Food and Evening Bazaar Tour

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Where to eat well, no fuss

15 places

Jimmy Boy

Order Patra ni machhi and a Pallonji's raspberry soda.

Jimmy Boy off Horniman Circle runs the Parsi wedding menu daily: patra ni machhi, sali boti, dhansak, akuri, lagan nu custard. Three-generation Parsi family.

Indigo Delicatessen

Order Eggs benedict at any hour and a sticky toffee for the table.

Rahul Akerkar's Indigo Deli on Colaba Causeway runs all day, two minutes from the Gateway. Eggs benedict for breakfast, burger for lunch, sticky toffee.

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Swati Snacks

Order Panki on banana leaves and a faraali pattice.

Swati Snacks in Tardeo has run family-style Gujarati for three generations. Panki on banana leaves, faraali pattice and seasonal aamras with hot puris.

Cream Centre

Order Channa bhatura with a Spanish omelette sizzler and a hot fudge sundae.

Cream Centre opened at Chowpatty Seaface in 1958 as a vegetarian sweets and snacks counter. The channa bhatura is the canonical dish; the hot fudge sundae.

Gajalee

Order Bombil rava fry and Malvani prawn curry with rice.

Gajalee in Vile Parle East serves Malvani coastal cooking with the koli catch that morning. The thali runs prawns, surmai and crab with sol kadhi.

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Bademiya

Order Mutton seekh in a baida roti and a chicken tikka roll for the road.

Bademiya has run charcoal kebabs behind the Taj since 1946. The street stall pulls midnight queues for baida roti, seekh kabab and chicken tikka rolls.

Cafe Mondegar

Order Chicken cafreal, a cold beer and the chocolate mousse.

Cafe Mondegar opened in 1932 on Colaba Causeway. The Mario Miranda murals on opposite walls are the room's signature; the Wurlitzer jukebox still works.