Day-by-day eating plans for Mumbai. weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.
Day-by-day plans
Mumbai weekend: the classics, done right ★ 4.7
A weekend built around the dishes Mumbai invented, the Irani cafes that wrote the rulebook and the modern Indian rooms that are rewriting it.
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Day 1: Saturday: Irani breakfast, koli lunch, modern Indian dinner
- Morning
- Kyani and Co at 08:00 on Marine Lines for bun maska, Irani chai and a mawa cake at the original 1904 counter. Walk down to Marine Drive for an early sea view.
- Afternoon
- Lunch at Trishna in Kala Ghoda from 12:30: butter pepper garlic crab, squid koliwada, a side of neer dosa. Walk through the Kala Ghoda Arts district after.
- Evening
- Dinner at The Bombay Canteen at 20:00 in Kamala Mills: eggs kejriwal at the bar, ghee roast chicken seekh, the Canteen Experience if booking allows.
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Day 2: Sunday: Parsi lunch, Bandra coffee, late kebab
- Morning
- Jimmy Boy at 12:30 off Horniman Circle for the Parsi wedding menu: patra ni machhi, sali boti and lagan nu custard. Walk Fort for the heritage architecture after.
- Afternoon
- Coffee at Subko in Bandra West at 15:00: a Bibasaha Bana espresso and a chocolate-cardamom croissant on the Chapel Road terrace.
- Evening
- Dinner at Bademiya in Colaba from 20:30: charcoal kebabs and a baida roti from the Tulloch Road street stall. The stall runs until 03:00.
Mumbai vegetarian: three days without missing a thing ★ 4.6
Three days inside Mumbai's deep vegetarian map: Gujarati thali, South Indian dosa, Parsi vegetarian dishes and the chaat-stall classics.
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Day 1: Day 1: Gujarati and chaat-stall classics
- Morning
- Swati Snacks at noon in Tardeo: panki on banana leaves, faraali pattice and a glass of chaas. Three generations of Gujarati vegetarian cooking.
- Afternoon
- Sardar Pav Bhaji at 14:00 in Tardeo: cheese pav bhaji with extra butter, the canonical Mumbai street vegetable curry.
- Evening
- Bhel and pani puri at the Chowpatty Beach Bhel and Chaat Carts from sundown. Walk Marine Drive after.
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Day 2: Day 2: South Indian Matunga
- Morning
- Cafe Madras at 07:30 in Matunga East: filter coffee, Mysore masala dosa, fresh idli. Walk Matunga's South Indian quarter after.
- Afternoon
- A Rama Nayak Udipi Shri Krishna at 13:00: the unlimited South Indian thali on banana leaves, with sambar refills.
- Evening
- Soam at 19:30 in Chowpatty: saat dana khichdi, faraali undhiyo, bhinda nu shaak. Modern Gujarati from Pinki Dixit.
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Day 3: Day 3: Pancham, Kyani, Cream Centre
- Morning
- Kyani and Co at 08:00 in Marine Lines: bun maska, Irani chai, mawa cake. The 1904 institution.
- Afternoon
- Pancham Puriwala at 13:00 in Fort: Pancham thali with extra puris. Open since 1848, lunch only at this counter.
- Evening
- Cream Centre at 20:00 in Chowpatty: channa bhatura and a hot fudge sundae to close. The 1958 institution.
Mumbai cocktail bars: a long, slow night ★ 4.5
A single long evening across Mumbai's best cocktail bars: from Bandra natural-wine to Worli French to Colaba late-night kebabs.
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Day 1: One evening: Bandra, Worli, Colaba
- Morning
- Subko Bandra at 18:00 for a pre-dinner pour-over to wake up before the night starts. Sit on the Chapel Road terrace.
- Afternoon
- Bombay Daak at 20:00 in Bandra: Indian regional liqueur cocktails (feni, mahua, urak) with daaru chakhna from across India. Live DJ on Friday and Saturday.
- Evening
- Slink and Bardot at 22:30 in Worli for a French 75 and late oysters, then Bademiya at 01:00 in Colaba for charcoal kebabs and a baida roti to close.
Mumbai Irani cafe trail: bun maska to berry pulao ★ 4.6
A single-day loop through the surviving Irani cafes of South Bombay, anchored on the three rooms that wrote the script: Yazdani, Sassanian, Britannia.
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Day 1: Day 1: Fort breakfast, Marine Lines lunch, Ballard Estate close
- Morning
- Open the day at Yazdani Bakery in Fort at 07:30 for brun maska, bun maska, raspberry soda and the wood-fired oven brun. The Cawasji family has worked this counter since 1953; the room itself is 19th-century. Sit at the wooden benches and order a second mawa cake.
- Afternoon
- Walk to Sassanian Boulangerie at Marine Lines for the late breakfast crossover at 11:30: kheema pav, akuri, mawa cake, sweet milky chai. Sassanian is the loudest of the three rooms and the easiest first stop for someone new to Irani format. Linger over a Boombay Bhushan cookbook from the counter rack.
- Evening
- Lunch and close at Britannia and Co in Ballard Estate from 12:30 (book ahead). Berry pulao with Iranian zereshk, sali boti, raspberry soda, lagan nu custard. The room has been working since 1923 in Wakefield House; the late Boman Kohinoor's portrait still greets at the door.
Mumbai modern Indian: Bandra and Lower Parel in one day ★ 4.7
A one-day trail through the post-2015 modern Indian movement: Subko coffee in Bandra, O Pedro Goan-Portuguese lunch in BKC, Slink and Bardot supper club in Lower Parel.
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Day 1: Day 1: Bandra coffee, BKC lunch, Lower Parel close
- Morning
- Coffee and croissants at Subko Specialty Coffee Roasters and Craft Bakehouse in Bandra West from 08:30. Order a Bibasaha Bana espresso, a cardamom-pistachio croissant, and pick up a single-origin Chikmagalur bag for home. The roastery is visible behind the counter.
- Afternoon
- Lunch at O Pedro in BKC from 12:30 (book at the bar if walking in). The Goan-Portuguese tasting menu: chouriço pao, prawn balchao, bebinca. The room reads as a coastal Goan tavern transplanted into the BKC office block; the bar pours feni-based cocktails through the meal.
- Evening
- Supper club at Slink and Bardot in Lower Parel from 19:30 (book a week ahead). The chef's-tasting moves through Mumbai's modern Indian repertoire with a French-trained hand. Stay for the late drinks on the back terrace; the room runs till 01:30.