Crisp phyllo pastry layers encasing cold pastry cream, dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar. The Thessaloniki version is distinguished by its cold cream filling and the marble-counter morning ritual at Bantis.

The Thessaloniki bougatsa was consolidated by Asia Minor refugee bakers who arrived after the 1923 population exchange. The combination of thin-pulled phyllo, cold semolina cream and the morning-counter format is specific to this city. Bantis on Panagias Faneromenis has run continuously since 1969 and remains the canonical Thessaloniki address, opening at 06:30 every day.

Where to eat Bougatsa Thessalonikis in Thessaloniki

3 editor picks for Bougatsa Thessalonikis in Thessaloniki, ranked by editorial score. All Thessaloniki signature dishes · Bougatsa Thessalonikis across every city.

  • Bougatsa Giannis

    Bougatsa Giannis operates on a unique schedule: open from 8pm until 3pm the following day, serving fresh cream and cheese bougatsa through the night.

    DetailsDirections

  • Bantis Bougatsa

    Bantis has produced Thessaloniki's cream bougatsa from a marble counter near Dikastirion Square since 1969.

    DetailsDirections

  • Estrella

    Estrella became a local phenomenon with its bougatsa croissant, a cream-filled phyllo hybrid that sells out by 10am most mornings.

    DetailsDirections

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Make it at home

Serves 81 hr 30 minIntermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 litre whole milk
  • 150g caster sugar
  • 120g fine semolina
  • 2 tbsp cornflour
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • Pinch of fine salt
  • 12 sheets phyllo pastry (about 250g), thawed
  • 150g unsalted butter, melted
  • 30g icing sugar, to finish
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon, to finish

Method

  1. Whisk the eggs, sugar, semolina, cornflour, salt and vanilla in a bowl until smooth.
  2. Heat the milk in a heavy pan until just steaming. Pour a ladle of hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking, then return everything to the pan.
  3. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, for 6 to 8 minutes until the custard thickens to a heavy pudding texture that holds a line on the spoon. Cover with cling film on the surface and chill until cold.
  4. Heat the oven to 180C. Brush a 30 by 22cm baking tin with butter.
  5. Lay 6 sheets of phyllo into the tin, brushing each with melted butter and letting the edges hang over the sides. Keep unused sheets under a damp cloth.
  6. Spread the cold custard evenly over the phyllo base.
  7. Cover with the remaining 6 sheets, again brushing each with butter. Fold the overhanging edges in to seal.
  8. Score the top into 8 portions with a sharp knife (do not cut through). Bake for 35 to 40 minutes until deeply golden and crisp.
  9. Cool 10 minutes, then dust heavily with icing sugar and cinnamon. Cut and serve warm.

Editor tip. Use the finest semolina you can find; coarse semolina gives a grainy filling. The Thessaloniki version is served warm, not hot, so the cream tightens against the crisp phyllo.