Steak frites is the dish Paris built into its bistro grammar: contre-filet or onglet pulled saignant, hand-cut fries fried twice, butter sauce or just sea salt on the side.
The Parisian bistro form of steak frites took shape in the second half of the 19th century, when Belgian-style frites travelled to Paris bistros and the slim contre-filet cut became the city's default beef. By the 1930s, the dish was the standard set lunch across working-class quarters of the 11e and 12e. Yves Camdeborde's 1990s bistronomie movement, then Bertrand Grébaut and the neo-bistros after, kept steak frites on the carte but moved the meat sourcing onto farmer-named cuts. Le Relais de l'Entrecôte, founded 1959, codified the no-choice salad-then-steak-then-frites format with secret-recipe butter sauce that the chain now runs across four addresses.
Bistrot Paul Bert is Paris's textbook bistro: zinc bar, chalkboard menu, steak frites cooked rare with hand-cut fries, île flottante for two on a single.
OrderSteak frites cooked saignant, île flottante for two, a pichet of house red.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book two weeks ahead for a weeknight or take the 19:30 first seating.
Le Bon Georges in Paris's 9e cooks farmer-named meat and a tarte tatin worth ordering before the main: the kitchen prep includes a 12-hour rest on the apples.
OrderCôte de bœuf for two from a named Limousin farm, tarte tatin with crème fraîche.
TipThe wine list is small but well-chosen; ask the waiter rather than the sommelier.
Robert et Louise in Paris's 3e has grilled côtes de bœuf over an open log fire in the dining room since 1958. Booking required for the fireside tables.
OrderCôte de bœuf for two grilled in the room, aligot from the Aubrac.
TipTwo seatings only, 19:30 and 21:30. Closed Sunday. Sit close to the fire in winter.
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte in Paris's 6e runs one menu: salade aux noix, contre-filet steak, fries, secret-recipe butter sauce. No menus, no choice, no booking.
OrderSteak medium-rare, frites for the second helping, profiteroles to finish.
TipQueue from 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. The Marais branch is the easier ticket.
Learn classic French cooking techniques at a 6-hour cooking class in the Latin Quarter of Paris, visiting a local open air market to forage for fresh produce to turn i...
Learn classic French cooking techniques at a 5-hour cooking class in the Latin Quarter of Paris, using fresh produce from the local market to turn into a memorable 3-c...