Steak frites
Photo: LuvsMG481 · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

The Parisian bistro form of steak frites took shape in the second half of the 19th century, when Belgian-style frites travelled to Paris bistros and the slim contre-filet cut became the city's default beef. By the 1930s, the dish was the standard set lunch across working-class quarters of the 11e and 12e. Yves Camdeborde's 1990s bistronomie movement, then Bertrand Grébaut and the neo-bistros after, kept steak frites on the carte but moved the meat sourcing onto farmer-named cuts. Le Relais de l'Entrecôte, founded 1959, codified the no-choice salad-then-steak-then-frites format with secret-recipe butter sauce that the chain now runs across four addresses.

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Common allergens: Gluten if served with sauce béarnaise, Egg in béarnaise sauce

Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 25 minTotal 55 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 2 contre-filet or onglet steaks, 200 to 250g each, at room temperature for 1 hour
  • 800g floury potatoes, Bintje or King Edward, peeled and cut into 1cm batons
  • 1.5L sunflower oil for frying
  • 30g unsalted butter
  • Sea salt flakes, freshly ground black pepper
  • Optional: 1 shallot finely chopped + 100ml dry white wine + 30g cold butter for a quick pan sauce

Method

  1. Soak the potato batons in cold water for 15 minutes, drain and pat very dry on a clean tea towel.
  2. Heat the oil to 140°C and blanch the chips for 5 to 6 minutes until soft but pale. Drain and rest 10 minutes.
  3. Pat the steaks dry. Heat a heavy frying pan until smoking hot, add a knob of butter, lay the steaks in and do not move them for 90 seconds per side for rare.
  4. Transfer the steaks to a warm plate, cover loosely with foil, and rest 5 minutes while you finish the chips.
  5. Reheat the oil to 180°C, fry the chips a second time for 2 to 3 minutes until deep golden, drain on paper, season with sea salt.
  6. For the pan sauce, soften the shallot in the steak pan, deglaze with wine, reduce by two thirds, then whisk in the cold butter off the heat. Serve poured over the steak.

Tip from the editors. Rest the steaks longer than the brief sear: 5 minutes minimum. If the chips are sagging, raise the second fry to 190°C for 60 seconds extra.

Where to eat steak frites

Steak frites in Paris

Bistrot Paul Bert ★ 4.4

€€ French Bistro11e

Bistrot Paul Bert is Paris's textbook bistro: zinc bar, chalkboard menu, steak frites cooked rare with hand-cut fries, île flottante for two on a single.

OrderSteak frites cooked saignant, île flottante for two, a pichet of house red.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book two weeks ahead for a weeknight or take the 19:30 first seating.

Directions

Le Relais de l'Entrecôte ★ 4.0

€€ French bistroUntil Open until 23:30

Le Relais de l'Entrecôte in Paris is the 6e steak-frites room that queues until 23:00. At 20 Rue Saint-Benoît. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

TrySteak frites with house butter sauce

TipQueue from 21:00 for the late seating; tables turn every 45 minutes after the dinner rush.

Directions

Bouillon Chartier ★ 4.0

€ Brasserie

Bouillon Chartier in Paris is the 1896 workers' brasserie still plating œuf mayonnaise at €3 and a full bistro 3-course set under €18, no reservation.

TryThree-course bistro classics

TipQueue moves fast. Arrive at 11:30 lunch or 18:30 dinner for the first wave of seating.

Directions

Le Bon Georges ★ 4.4

€€ French Bistro9e

Le Bon Georges in Paris's 9e cooks farmer-named meat and a tarte tatin worth ordering before the main: the kitchen prep includes a 12-hour rest on the apples.

OrderCôte de bœuf for two from a named Limousin farm, tarte tatin with crème fraîche.

TipThe wine list is small but well-chosen; ask the waiter rather than the sommelier.

Directions

Robert et Louise ★ 4.3

€€ French Regional3e

Robert et Louise in Paris's 3e has grilled côtes de bœuf over an open log fire in the dining room since 1958. Booking required for the fireside tables.

OrderCôte de bœuf for two grilled in the room, aligot from the Aubrac.

TipTwo seatings only, 19:30 and 21:30. Closed Sunday. Sit close to the fire in winter.

Directions Book

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