Escargots de Bourgogne in Paris is the snail starter served in its shell with garlic-and-parsley butter, eaten with tongs and a slim two-tined fork, sopped up with baguette.

Snails entered Parisian dining in the 19th century after a 1814 banquet at the Palais-Royal where Antonin Carême served them to Tsar Alexander I. By 1900, the dish was standard at Paris brasseries: a half-dozen escargots de Bourgogne, the Helix pomatia raised in vineyards across Burgundy, baked in their shells with garlic, parsley and Champagne butter. L'Escargot Montorgueil, founded 1832 in the 1er, has cooked the dish without interruption longer than any other restaurant in the city. Modern Paris has stayed loyal to the form: bistros serve a half or a full dozen at €12 to €24, with a slim escargot fork in lieu of an oyster pick.

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