Cuisine Nissarde€€vieux-nice
Le Safari on Cours Saleya in Vieux Nice has cooked the canonical Nicois lunch since 1972, the Cuisine Nissarde labelled trattoria with terrace tables across from the flower market.
Signature: Pissaladiere, Stockfish, Daube
Order: The pissaladiere and the stockfish; the daube is the dinner anchor.
Tip: Open 12:00 to 23:00 daily; book the terrace at lunch during the morning market hours.
Seafood and shellfish€€€place-garibaldi
Cafe de Turin on Place Garibaldi has poured oysters on the Nice arcaded square since 1908, the Roumegous oyster the house pearl and an eighty tonne annual shuck that anchors the city's seafood reputation.
Signature: Roumegous oysters, Shellfish platter
Order: A dozen Roumegous oysters and a glass of Bellet white at the sidewalk counter.
Tip: Open 10:00 to 22:00 daily. No reservations; arrive early or at the 16:00 dip between services.
Cuisine Nissarde€€carre-d-or
Lou Balico on Avenue Saint Jean Baptiste has cooked the Nicois family canon since 1979, the Cuisine Nissarde label across stockfish, homemade ravioli, ratatouille, stuffed courgette flowers and the sweet chard tart.
Signature: Stockfish, Homemade ravioli, Tarte de blettes
Order: The homemade ravioli with daube sauce and the tarte de blettes for dessert.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday evenings. Generous portions; doggie bags accepted.
Seafood and paella€€€carre-d-or
Le Boccaccio on Rue Massena in Nice's pedestrian Carre d'Or runs a 17th century sailing ship interior across two floors, seafood and paella from a big terrace built into the heart of the shopping streets.
Signature: Bouillabaisse, Paella, Whole grilled fish
Order: The bouillabaisse for two and the paella for three; the family tables run them in tandem.
Tip: Open 12:00 to 22:30 daily; the terrace is the dining room. Family sized portions for sharing.
Mediterranean seafood€€€port-lympia
Le Bistrot du Port on Quai Lunel runs Jose Orsini's Mediterranean seafood room on the Port Lympia, large terrace tables facing the boat basin and a kitchen built around the daily catch off the docks.
Signature: Daily catch, Whole sea bream
Order: The whole sea bream from the morning catch; the wine list leans Bellet.
Tip: Book a quayside table for sunset. Closed Mondays; busy at lunch with port traffic.
Modern French bistro€€carre-d-or
L'Alchimie on Rue Maccarani in Nice's Carre d'Or holds the Michelin Bib Gourmand under Arnaud Collin, the modern bistro popular with city locals for sensibly priced honest cooking and a particularly good lunch menu.
Signature: Daily blackboard, Wine list by the glass
Order: The lunch menu blackboard; Collin moves the kitchen daily with the produce that lands.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday 11:00 to 18:00, Thursday and Friday after work until 23:00. Book ahead at lunch.