Le Bistrot du Port on Quai Lunel runs Jose Orsini's Mediterranean seafood room on the Port Lympia, large terrace tables facing the boat basin and a kitchen built around the daily catch off the docks.
Signature dishes: Daily catch, Whole sea bream
Must order: The whole sea bream from the morning catch; the wine list leans Bellet.
Tip: Book a quayside table for sunset. Closed Mondays; busy at lunch with port traffic.
Address: 28 Quai Lunel, 06300 Nice
Chez Pipo on Rue Bavastro between Place Garibaldi and Port Lympia has fired socca in wood-burning ovens since 1923, the canonical Nicois address for the chickpea flour pancake the city invented.
Signature: Socca, Pissaladiere, Tourte de blettes
Order: Two slices of socca and a glass of Bellet rose at the bench seat.
Tip: Open Wednesday to Sunday 11:30 to 14:30 and 17:30 to 22:00; no reservations, cash and card both accepted.
L'Alchimie on Rue Maccarani in Nice's Carre d'Or holds the Michelin Bib Gourmand under Arnaud Collin, the modern bistro popular with city locals for sensibly priced honest cooking and a particularly good lunch menu.
Signature: Daily blackboard, Wine list by the glass
Order: The lunch menu blackboard; Collin moves the kitchen daily with the produce that lands.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday 11:00 to 18:00, Thursday and Friday after work until 23:00. Book ahead at lunch.
Felix on Avenue Felix Faure faces the Coulee Verte garden in Nice's Carre d'Or, the historic city brasserie reopened under a new name with French Mediterranean across five rooms and a large outdoor terrace.
Signature: Brasserie classics, Niçoise salad
Order: The classic salade nicoise at lunch; the pizza, pasta and wine by the glass anchor the value menu.
Tip: Open 7 days a week, 11:45 to 01:30; continuous service through the afternoon, a rare thing in Nice.
Cafe Marche on Rue Barillerie just off Cours Saleya runs Emilie Bargin's morning room in Vieux Nice, the Sunday 11:00 to 15:00 brunch the city's most reliable weekend booking.
Signature: Sunday brunch, Eggs and toast plate
Order: The Sunday brunch of scrambled eggs, jams and honey toast, club sandwich and Provencal salads.
Tip: Open Sunday for brunch when much of the city is closed; arrive by 11:00 for a terrace table.
Little Boho on Place Garibaldi is the boho chic daytime room Melissa and Jean opened in the Petit Marais quarter of Nice, terrace tables on the arcaded yellow square and a short Mediterranean breakfast and lunch menu.
Signature: Daily lunch plate, Apero board
Order: The daily lunch plate at the terrace, then an apero board on the square at sunset.
Tip: Continuous service through the afternoon; closed Monday. Good fallback when Cafe de Turin is full.
Chez Pipo on Rue Bavastro between Place Garibaldi and Port Lympia has fired socca in wood-burning ovens since 1923, the canonical Nicois address for the chickpea flour pancake the city invented.
Signature: Socca, Pissaladiere, Tourte de blettes
Order: Two slices of socca and a glass of Bellet rose at the bench seat.
Tip: Open Wednesday to Sunday 11:30 to 14:30 and 17:30 to 22:00; no reservations, cash and card both accepted.
Flaveur in Nice's Carre d'Or holds two Michelin stars under brothers Mickael and Gael Tourteaux, the only two star room in the city and a contemporary Riviera Caribbean tasting kitchen.
Signature: San Remo caramote prawn, Nicoise peach bouillon
Order: The San Remo caramote prawn starter from the tasting menu, the dish that secured the second star.
Tip: Reservations 4 to 6 weeks ahead; closed Sunday and Monday. Two tasting menus only; no a la carte service.
