Cuisine Nissarde€€carre-d-or
Lou Balico on Avenue Saint Jean Baptiste has cooked the Nicois family canon since 1979, the Cuisine Nissarde label across stockfish, homemade ravioli, ratatouille, stuffed courgette flowers and the sweet chard tart.
Signature: Stockfish, Homemade ravioli, Tarte de blettes
Order: The homemade ravioli with daube sauce and the tarte de blettes for dessert.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday evenings. Generous portions; doggie bags accepted.
Seafood and paella€€€carre-d-or
Le Boccaccio on Rue Massena in Nice's pedestrian Carre d'Or runs a 17th century sailing ship interior across two floors, seafood and paella from a big terrace built into the heart of the shopping streets.
Signature: Bouillabaisse, Paella, Whole grilled fish
Order: The bouillabaisse for two and the paella for three; the family tables run them in tandem.
Tip: Open 12:00 to 22:30 daily; the terrace is the dining room. Family sized portions for sharing.
Mediterranean seafood€€€port-lympia
Le Bistrot du Port on Quai Lunel runs Jose Orsini's Mediterranean seafood room on the Port Lympia, large terrace tables facing the boat basin and a kitchen built around the daily catch off the docks.
Signature: Daily catch, Whole sea bream
Order: The whole sea bream from the morning catch; the wine list leans Bellet.
Tip: Book a quayside table for sunset. Closed Mondays; busy at lunch with port traffic.
Modern French bistro€€carre-d-or
L'Alchimie on Rue Maccarani in Nice's Carre d'Or holds the Michelin Bib Gourmand under Arnaud Collin, the modern bistro popular with city locals for sensibly priced honest cooking and a particularly good lunch menu.
Signature: Daily blackboard, Wine list by the glass
Order: The lunch menu blackboard; Collin moves the kitchen daily with the produce that lands.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday 11:00 to 18:00, Thursday and Friday after work until 23:00. Book ahead at lunch.
French brasserie€€carre-d-or
Felix on Avenue Felix Faure faces the Coulee Verte garden in Nice's Carre d'Or, the historic city brasserie reopened under a new name with French Mediterranean across five rooms and a large outdoor terrace.
Signature: Brasserie classics, Niçoise salad
Order: The classic salade nicoise at lunch; the pizza, pasta and wine by the glass anchor the value menu.
Tip: Open 7 days a week, 11:45 to 01:30; continuous service through the afternoon, a rare thing in Nice.
Mediterranean brunch and lunch€€vieux-nice
Cafe Marche on Rue Barillerie just off Cours Saleya runs Emilie Bargin's morning room in Vieux Nice, the Sunday 11:00 to 15:00 brunch the city's most reliable weekend booking.
Signature: Sunday brunch, Eggs and toast plate
Order: The Sunday brunch of scrambled eggs, jams and honey toast, club sandwich and Provencal salads.
Tip: Open Sunday for brunch when much of the city is closed; arrive by 11:00 for a terrace table.