The Basque Country (Euskadi to the locals) is a small region on the Bay of Biscay with the highest concentration of Michelin stars per capita in the world. Three three-star restaurants (Arzak in San Sebastian, Akelarre, and Azurmendi in Larrabetzu) sit within an hour of each other, and the entire region of two million people supports more than two dozen starred kitchens. The Basques have eaten well for centuries: they were the first European cod fishers to reach Newfoundland, the first to industrially can anchovies, and the inventors of the modern pintxo.

The cooking grammar is fish and meat over wood embers, with restraint on the seasoning and respect for the product. The txuleton (aged bone-in rib steak from old dairy cow) is grilled rare over oak; bacalao (salt cod) is treated four canonical ways (pil-pil, vizcaina, ajoarriero, club ranero); the Bay of Biscay seafood (kokotxas, anchovies, hake, spider crab, lobster) gets minimal handling. The modern Basque movement (nueva cocina vasca, launched by Juan Mari Arzak and Pedro Subijana in 1976) added technique without abandoning product.

At the table, Basque eating happens in multiple formats: the pintxo bar (small plates speared on bread, displayed on the counter), the sidreria (apple-cider house with txuleton and bacalao tortilla in a fixed menu, dinner only), the asador (wood-grill steakhouse), the gastronomic society (txoko, a private members' club where men cook for each other), and the haute restaurant. Each has its own ritual.

Regional variations

Gipuzkoa (San Sebastian)

The pintxo capital and the densest fine-dining province. Three three-stars (Arzak, Akelarre, Martin Berasategui in nearby Lasarte). Pintxo crawl in the old town (Parte Vieja): La Cuchara de San Telmo, Bar Nestor, Borda Berri, Atari, Ganbara.

Bizkaia (Bilbao)

Bacalao a la vizcaina (cod in red pepper sauce), marmitako (tuna and potato stew), the Guggenheim-era restaurant scene led by Azurmendi (three stars, Larrabetzu) and Etxanobe. The industrial north.

Alava and the interior

The Rioja Alavesa wine zone produces some of Spain's finest Tempranillo. The interior cooks more meat and fewer fish: lamb, pork, beans. Vitoria-Gasteiz, the Basque capital.

French Basque (Iparralde)

Across the border, the Basque cuisine continues with axoa (veal stew with Espelette pepper), ttoro (fish stew), gateau basque, jambon de Bayonne. Espelette pepper (AOC) is the regional spice.

Defining basque dishes

Txuleton
Bone-in rib steak from aged dairy cow (vaca vieja, often rubia gallega), grilled rare over oak embers, salted with coarse sea salt, served in 800-1200 gram slabs to share. The Basque beef ritual.
Bacalao al pil-pil
Salt cod cooked in olive oil with garlic and chile, the sauce emulsified by shaking the pan until the cod's gelatin binds with the oil. The technical benchmark dish.
Bacalao a la vizcaina
Salt cod in red pepper and onion sauce. The Bizkaia signature.
Kokotxas
Hake or cod throat (the soft gelatinous flesh below the jaw), cooked al pil-pil or battered and fried. The Basque delicacy that's almost impossible to find outside the region.
Marmitako
Tuna and potato stew with peppers, onion, tomato, and Espelette. Originally a Basque fisherman's one-pot dish.
Pintxo de tortilla
Slice of tortilla espanola on bread, often warm. The bar-counter staple.
Gilda
The original pintxo: a skewer of anchovy, pickled guindilla pepper, and olive. Named after the Rita Hayworth film. Invented at Bar Casa Vallés in San Sebastian, 1946.
Txangurro a la donostiarra
Spider crab baked in its shell with onion, tomato, brandy, and breadcrumbs. The San Sebastian seafood signature.
Tarta de queso (Basque cheesecake)
Burnt-top cheesecake popularized by La Vina in San Sebastian and now globalized. Crustless, deeply caramelized, slightly molten in the center.
Idiazabal
Smoked sheep's-milk cheese from the Pyrenees and the Urbasa range. PDO-protected, often served with quince paste.

How to order

In San Sebastian, do a pintxo crawl: stand at the bar of three or four bars across an evening, order one or two pintxos at each, drink txakoli (the local sparkling white) or red Rioja Alavesa. Grab pintxos from the counter onto your plate; the bartender counts toothpicks at the end. At a sidreria (apple-cider house, mostly November to April), the menu is fixed: chorizo in cider, salt-cod tortilla, salt cod with peppers, txuleton, walnuts and Idiazabal cheese, all-you-can-drink cider straight from the txotx (barrel tap). At an asador, txuleton is the order; ask for it rare and shared.

The rookie mistakes: ordering pintxos one at a time at the table (the bar is the rhythm), arriving at a sidreria in summer (the season runs November to April only), asking for the steak well-done (the Basques will be polite but you'll have lost the experience).

What to drink with it

Txakoli (Txakolina) is the regional white: low-alcohol, sparkling, sharp, poured from height to aerate. Drink it with pintxos. Rioja Alavesa (the Basque side of the Rioja zone) produces serious Tempranillo. Sidra natural (still apple cider) at the sidreria, poured in a long stream from above to oxygenate. Patxaran (sloe liqueur infused in anise spirit) as digestif. Beer (the local Keler or Mahou) is the casual default; coffee solo at the end.

Where to eat it

San Sebastian is the obvious anchor: La Cuchara de San Telmo, Bar Nestor, Borda Berri, Atari, Ganbara for pintxos, plus Arzak, Mugaritz, Akelarre, Martin Berasategui for tasting menus. Getaria for grilled fish at Elkano. Bilbao for Azurmendi (in nearby Larrabetzu) and Etxanobe. Inland Tolosa for the Friday-night meat ritual at Casa Julian. Outside the Basque Country: London (Sabor by Nieves Barragan, Donostia), New York (La Vara, Txikito), Mexico City (Basque expat community is strong), and Buenos Aires all run serious Basque rooms.

A short history

The Basque people are the oldest continuously settled population in Europe; their language (Euskara) is unrelated to any other and predates the Indo-European migrations. The fishing tradition built the regional kitchen: Basque whalers and cod-fishers reached Newfoundland by 1450, generations before Columbus. Nueva cocina vasca, launched in 1976 by Arzak, Subijana, and a group of young Basque chefs after a meeting with Paul Bocuse, modernized the regional cooking and made the Basque Country a global fine-dining destination.

Frequently asked

Why does the Basque Country have so many Michelin stars?

A combination of factors: deep product (seafood, beef, dairy), the gastronomic society tradition (txokos, where men cook ambitiously for each other), and the nueva cocina vasca movement that gave the region a clear modern identity. Plus a small, food-obsessed population willing to support ambitious kitchens.

What's the difference between pintxos and tapas?

Pintxos are Basque, almost always speared with a toothpick (the word means 'thorn'), displayed on the bar to grab. Tapas are the broader Spanish tradition, ordered from a menu or chalkboard. Pintxos tend to be more inventive and design-conscious.

Is txakoli the same as cava?

No. Cava is Catalan, made by the traditional method (bottle fermentation). Txakoli (Txakolina) is Basque, low-alcohol, lightly sparkling, made from Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza grapes, and meant to be drunk young. Different grape, different method, different region.

Basque by city

Basque in Atlanta

Cooks and Soldiers ★ 4.5

Basque$$$west-midtown

Cooks and Soldiers in West Midtown, Atlanta opened 2014 with a wood-fired Basque menu of pintxos, plancha plates and the prized txuleton steak from Castro.

Signature: Wood-grilled txuleton steak, Pintxos, Tortilla espanola

Order: The whole txuleton steak (for two) with pommes frites; pintxos to start.

Tip: Pintxos hour 16:00 to 18:00 Sunday through Thursday is the bargain entry to the kitchen. Resy reservations open 30 days out.

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Basque in Bilbao

Mina ★ 4.7

Modern Basque€€€€indautxu

Mina has held one Michelin star since 2013 for Alvaro Garrido's modern-Basque tasting menu, now a 25-cover Indautxu room on Calle Ercilla. Priced at €€€€.

Signature: Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil, Cigala, Tasting menu

Order: The full tasting menu; the kokotxas de merluza al pil pil are the canonical Garrido dish.

Tip: Two services, lunch and dinner, menu only. Book three weeks ahead; closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Boroa ★ 4.5

Modern Basque€€€€amorebieta

Boroa in a 15th-century Bizkaian farmhouse 20 minutes from Bilbao holds one Michelin star for Javier Gartzia's tradition-and-avant-garde Basque cooking.

Signature: Tasting menu, Cantabrian fish, Bizkaian classics

Order: The full tasting menu; ask for the bacalao if you order a la carte.

Tip: Twenty minutes by car from central Bilbao; closed Sunday night and Monday. Book the farmhouse upstairs room for the quietest seating.

Ola Martin Berasategui ★ 4.5

Modern Basque€€€€casco-viejo

Ola Martin Berasategui in the Tayko hotel by the Nervion in Bilbao holds one Michelin star for Raul Cabrera's reading of the Berasategui canon.

Signature: Martin Berasategui tasting menu, La Bodega de Ola, Seasonal grill

Order: The Martin Berasategui tasting menu; La Bodega de Ola for the wine-pairing service.

Tip: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays plus Sunday dinner; book two weeks out.

Atelier Etxanobe ★ 4.4

Modern Basque€€€€abando

Atelier Etxanobe in Bilbao's Abando is a 20-cover Canales-and-Poblacion gastronomic room in a former glass factory holding one Michelin star.

Signature: Atelier tasting menu, Cabracho, Bonito de Bermeo

Order: The full Atelier tasting menu; the cabracho course is the signature opener.

Tip: Closed Sundays; book three weeks ahead for the smaller dining room.

La Despensa del Etxanobe ★ 4.3

Traditional Basque€€€abando

La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.

Signature: Cocido de garbanzos, Bacalao al pil pil, Txuleta

Order: The Bilbao tasting menu; the bacalao al pil pil if you order a la carte.

Tip: Open until 22:15; quieter lunch service. Closed Sundays.

Casa Rufo ★ 4.5

Basque grill€€€abando

Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.

Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo

Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.

Tip: Lunch 13:30 to 16:00, dinner 20:30 to 23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter sells the same hams and cheeses.

Bascook ★ 4.3

Modern Basque€€€abando

Aitor Elizegi's Bascook in a former Bilbao salt warehouse runs a modern-Basque kitchen with the Bilbao 7 Cucharas old-recipes tasting menu set.

Signature: Tortilla de bacalao, Sea bass, Bilbao 7 cucharas

Order: The Bilbao 7 Cucharas tasting menu of old-Bilbao recipes; the tortilla de bacalao if you order a la carte.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; ask for a table in the brick-arched cellar room. The chef occasionally cooks in the dining room.

Berton ★ 4.2

Basque€€casco-viejo

Berton on Calle Jardines in Bilbao's Casco Viejo runs a standing pintxo bar and a Basque dining room with rabas and hand-cut Iberian ham daily.

Signature: Rabas, Iberian ham, Bacalao

Order: The rabas (fried squid) at the bar; the bacalao at the table.

Tip: Open continuously from 09:00 to 23:00; jam-packed at txikiteo hour, calmer after 21:30 in the dining room.

Anboto Gastroleku ★ 3.9

Traditional Basque€€casco-viejo

Anboto Gastroleku on Jardines in Bilbao runs a Casco Viejo pintxo bar downstairs and 110-cover Basque restaurant with menu del dia upstairs.

Signature: Bacalao, Pintxos selection, Tasting menu

Order: The 26-euro menu del dia for lunch; the bacalao if you order a la carte.

Tip: Book ahead for the upstairs dining room; the downstairs pintxo bar accepts walk-up custom from open until close.

Singular ★ 4.1

Modern Basque€€abando

Singular on Calle Lersundi in Bilbao runs six craft beer taps with 50 weekly bottles and 50 wines, plus Iberian ham rolls as the house pintxo.

Signature: Iberian ham roll, Salmon roll, Craft beer flights

Order: The Iberian ham roll on bread dipped in olive oil and tomato; the rotating craft beer flight.

Tip: Beer-pairing tastings on weeknights; the kitchen runs continuously from 12:00 to 23:00 weekends.

Casa Rufo ★ 4.5

Basque grill€€€abando

Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.

Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo

Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.

Tip: Lunch 13:30 to 16:00, dinner 20:30 to 23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter is worth a look.

Berton ★ 4.2

Basque€€casco-viejo

Berton on Calle Jardines in Bilbao's Casco Viejo runs a standing pintxo bar and a Basque dining room with rabas and hand-cut Iberian ham daily.

Signature: Rabas, Iberian ham, Bacalao

Order: The rabas (fried squid) at the bar; the bacalao at the table.

Tip: Open continuously from 09:00 to 23:00; jam-packed at txikiteo hour, calmer after 21:30 in the dining room.

Anboto Gastroleku ★ 3.9

Traditional Basque€€casco-viejo

Anboto Gastroleku on Jardines in Bilbao runs a Casco Viejo pintxo bar downstairs and 110-cover Basque restaurant with menu del dia upstairs.

Signature: Bacalao, Menu del dia, Grilled meats

Order: The 26-euro menu del dia for lunch; the bacalao if you order a la carte.

Tip: Book ahead for the upstairs dining room; the downstairs pintxo bar accepts walk-up custom from open until close.

Victor Montes ★ 4.4

Traditional Basque€€€casco-viejo

Victor Montes on Plaza Nueva in Bilbao keeps the spirit of the 1849 grocery, with grilled mushrooms with foie, charcuterie and a deep wine cellar.

Signature: Grilled mushrooms with foie, Iberian charcuterie, Old wines

Order: The grilled mushrooms with foie gras; a glass of old wine from the cellar.

Tip: The terrace facing Plaza Nueva is the spot in summer; the back dining room takes reservations.

La Despensa del Etxanobe ★ 4.3

Traditional Basque€€€abando

La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.

Signature: Cocido de garbanzos, Bacalao al pil pil, Txuleta

Order: The Bilbao tasting menu; the bacalao al pil pil if you order a la carte.

Tip: Open until 22:15; quieter lunch service. Closed Sundays.

Bascook ★ 4.3

Modern Basque€€€abando

Aitor Elizegi's Bascook in a former Bilbao salt warehouse runs a modern-Basque kitchen with the Bilbao 7 Cucharas old-recipes tasting menu set.

Signature: Tortilla de bacalao, Sea bass, Bilbao 7 cucharas

Order: The Bilbao 7 Cucharas tasting menu of old-Bilbao recipes; the tortilla de bacalao if you order a la carte.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; ask for a table in the brick-arched cellar room.

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Basque in Ghent

Bar Bask ★ 4.5

Basque grill€€€dok-noord

Bib Gourmand-rated Bar Bask is set in a converted gas station at the edge of the Dok Noord district, with a wood-fired Basque asador as the kitchen's centrepiece for txuleta, turbot and lobster.

Signature: Txuleta, Turbot over asador, Lobster

Order: The txuleta from the charcoal asador, available when the kitchen has sourced the right cut, which is most.

Tip: Counter seats facing the open kitchen give the best view of the fire and the kitchen's rhythm.

Bar Bask ★ 4.3

Basque grill€€€dok-noord

Bar Bask does one thing: charcoal-grilled meat and fish in the Basque tradition. A short card changes with market supply, anchored by txuleton dry-aged beef.

Order: Txuleton for two: a massive bone-in Basque rib-eye, charred outside and rare within.

Tip: Portions here are large; two sharing the txuleton with one starter is the right call.

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Basque in Granada

Arriaga ★ 4.7

Modern Basque€€€€centro-sagrarioTue-Sat 13:30-15:30, 20:30-22:30

Arriaga in Granada is Basque chef Alvaro Arriagas Michelin Guide room atop the Museo de la Memoria, panoramic over Granada and the Sierra Nevada.

Signature: Six-course tasting menu, Nine-course grand tasting menu

Tip: Tasting menus are served per table; ask the sommelier for the Vinos de Granada flight if you want regional pairing over Andalusian-wide.

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Basque in London

Brat ★ 4.8

Basque grill£££shoreditch

Tomos Parry's Basque-fired wood-grill room above the Smoking Goat in Shoreditch London, opened 2018 and the whole-turbot benchmark for the city.

Signature: Whole grilled turbot, Smoked potatoes

Order: Whole turbot for two off the wood, with smoked potatoes and grilled lettuce.

Tip: Bookings open thirty days ahead at 10:00 and burn fast. Walk-up bar seats are released on the day from 11:00.

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Basque in Oaxaca

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Basque in San Sebastián

Casa Urola ★ 4.6

Basque€€€parte-vieja

Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian has cooked Basque market food since 1956, with pintxos downstairs and the dining room upstairs.

Signature: Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil, Cigala a la plancha, Txuleta de vaca vieja

Order: The kokotxas de merluza al pil pil downstairs first; then upstairs for the cigala and the chargrilled txuleta.

Tip: Eat pintxos at the ground-floor counter or book upstairs for a full meal. The kokotxas are the surest order in the city.

Bodegon Alejandro ★ 4.5

Basque€€€parte-vieja

Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.

Signature: Merluza a la donostiarra, Txuleta, Tarta de queso

Order: The merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.

Tip: Book the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.

Galerna Jan Edan ★ 4.7

Modern Basque€€€gros

Galerna Jan Edan in San Sebastian's Gros, run since 2016 by Jorge Asenjo and Rebeca Barainca, cooks a short modern-Basque tasting menu in a 30-cover room.

Signature: Tasting menu, Bonito de Bermeo, Game-season hare

Order: The bonito de Bermeo when the line boats land; in autumn the game-season tasting around hare and pigeon.

Tip: Two services, lunch and dinner, both menu-only. Book a fortnight ahead in season; the dining room is small and full.

Topa Sukalderia ★ 4.3

Basque-Latin American€€gros

Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros is the IXO Grupo (Andoni Luis Aduriz) Basque-Latin American room since 2017, with tacos, ceviches and a counter.

Signature: Quesadilla de morcilla, Cochinita pibil taco, Pisco sour

Order: The quesadilla de morcilla and the cochinita pibil taco; the pisco sour to drink.

Tip: The bar is walk-in; tables need a reservation through the website. The kitchen runs continuously from 13:00 onwards.

Casa 887 ★ 4.3

Modern Basque€€€gros

Casa 887 in San Sebastian's Gros runs a Basque-fusion kitchen with Asian inflection in a stone-and-wood room, with both a la carte and a 65-euro tasting menu.

Signature: Steak tartare, Carabineros, Asian-leaning Basque tasting

Order: The steak tartare and the carabineros if they're on the carte; the tasting if you're in for the night.

Tip: Book through OpenTable; the room is intimate and sells out on weekends.

Ganbara ★ 4.8

Basque€€€parte-vieja

Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.

Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo

Order: The autumn setas counter sauteed with egg yolk; the spider crab baked in its shell.

Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays. The bar counter is walk-in; the basement dining room takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.

Bar Nestor ★ 4.7

Basque grill€€parte-vieja

Bar Nestor on Pescaderia in San Sebastian's Old Town has cooked exactly four things since 1981: txuleta of old-cow ribeye, tomato salad, pimientos de Padron.

Signature: Txuleta de vaca vieja, Ensalada de tomate, Tortilla de patatas

Order: The txuleta on the chargrill, the tomato salad with sea salt, then a slice of the daily tortilla if you queued early.

Tip: Tortilla is two per day, twelve to seventeen slices; show up an hour before service. Txuleta needs a list-name on arrival.

La Vina ★ 4.7

Basque€€parte-vieja

La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990, when Santiago Rivera blasted a crustless cheesecake.

Signature: Tarta de queso La Vina, Pintxos clasicos, Bacalao al pil pil

Order: The tarta de queso, a wedge from the counter, plus a glass of Pedro Ximenez or Txakoli to cut.

Tip: Closed Mondays. Get the cheesecake at the counter; the dining room behind serves a sit-down lunch with the same wedge for dessert.

Fermin Calbeton (formerly Casa Tiburcio) ★ 4.2

Basque grill and pintxos€€parte-vieja

Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs traditional Basque counter cooking.

Signature: Callos y morros, Brasa de carne, Pintxos tradicionales

Order: The callos y morros if it's on the day's list, the chargrill meat plates from the brasa at the back.

Tip: Pintxos at the front bar, table service in the back room. The brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00.

Bar Txepetxa ★ 4.6

Basque anchovy bar€€parte-vieja

Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.

Signature: Anchoa de Pescaderia, Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo

Order: Anchoa a la jardinera (with pepper and onion) and anchoa with crema de centollo. Two each, then move.

Tip: Walk in only, stand at the bar. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; pick three and shout your order to the barman.

Casa Alcalde ★ 4.1

Basque€€parte-vieja

Casa Alcalde on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town is a long-running classic kitchen of jamon-and-tortilla pintxos, charcuterie and a working-day menu.

Signature: Jamon iberico, Pintxos clasicos, Menu del dia

Order: A plate of jamon iberico at the counter; the menu del dia at the back tables.

Tip: Open daily; the lunch menu del dia is good value at 16 euros. Counter is busy from 13:00 onwards.

Casa Senra ★ 4.0

Basque€€gros

Casa Senra on Calle San Francisco in San Sebastian's Gros runs a working-day menu del dia and a traditional Basque pintxo counter, the neighbourhood lunch.

Signature: Menu del dia, Pintxos tradicionales, Carrillera

Order: The menu del dia at lunch; the carrillera al vino tinto if it's on the carte.

Tip: Lunch served 13:00 to 15:30; menu del dia 14 to 18 euros. Closed Sunday.

Sirimiri Gastroleku ★ 4.2

Modern Basque€€parte-vieja

Sirimiri Gastroleku on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a contemporary pintxo bar with fresh fish ceviches, slow-cooked carrillera and a small.

Signature: Ceviche, Carrillera, Pato

Order: The seasonal fish ceviche; the slow-cooked beef cheek.

Tip: Sit at the counter to watch the kitchen; the back dining room is a sit-down service.

Topa Sukalderia ★ 4.3

Basque-Latin American€€gros

Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros is the IXO Grupo (Andoni Luis Aduriz) Basque-Latin American room since 2017, with tacos, ceviches and pisco cocktails.

Signature: Quesadilla de morcilla, Cochinita pibil taco, Ceviche

Order: The quesadilla de morcilla; the cochinita pibil taco; the pisco sour.

Tip: Walk in at the bar or book a table through topasukalderia.com. The kitchen runs continuously from 13:00.

Fermin Calbeton (formerly Casa Tiburcio) ★ 4.2

Basque grill and pintxos€€parte-vieja

Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs a Basque pintxo counter and a back-room.

Signature: Brasa de carne, Callos y morros, Pintxos tradicionales

Order: The callos y morros if it's on the day's list; the brasa-grilled chuleton from the back.

Tip: Brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00. Stand at the front bar for pintxos.

Bar Txepetxa ★ 4.6

Basque anchovy bar€€parte-vieja

Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.

Signature: Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo, Anchoa al ajo

Order: Anchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.

Tip: Counter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.

Ganbara ★ 4.8

Basque€€€parte-vieja

Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.

Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo

Order: The autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.

Tip: Counter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.

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Basque in Valencia

Askua ★ 4.6

Basque grill€€€leixample

Askua on Carrer del Felip Maria Garin in Valencia is a Basque-style grill founded 1994 by Ricardo Gadea, with rotating local-fish specials, chuleton from old.

Signature: Chuleton, Pescados a la brasa, Tomate de Bunol

Order: The chuleton (old-cow rib-eye) sliced at the table, with a tomato of Bunol salad on the side.

Tip: Closed Sunday. Reserve 10 days ahead. The fish-and-chuleton menu changes daily on a small chalkboard.

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