Trattoria Tinel in Split's Veli Varos is an Italian-leaning Dalmatian trattoria 30 metres from the Riva on Tomica Stine, open daily 08:00 to midnight.
Signature dishes: Hand-cut tagliatelle, Cuttlefish risotto, Whole fish grilled
Must order: Black cuttlefish risotto and a glass of Korcula Posip.
Tip: Best for late lunch from 14:00 when the room calms after the Riva crowd; the by-the-glass list runs Croatian-only.
Address: Tomica Stine 1, 21000 Split, Croatia
Pizzeria Galija on Toncieva in Split is the city's oldest pizzeria, opened in 1980, still pulling pizzas off a wood-fired oven that has not gone cold since.
Signature: Margherita, Galija sea-salt focaccia, Calzone
Order: Margherita with the wood-fired char on the crust.
Tip: Open daily 10:00 to 24:00; queue at the door for a table from 19:30 in summer.
Bajamonti on Split's Prokurative square is an arcaded all-day kitchen that runs a steakhouse, a wood-fired pizzeria and a seaside fish house under one roof.
Signature: Dry-aged steak, Wood-fired pizza, Whole grilled fish
Order: Dry-aged ribeye with house ajvar and roasted potatoes.
Tip: Open 07:30 to midnight; the steakhouse menu is dry-aged Croatian beef, and the pizza ovens lit through service from 12:00.
Brasserie on 7 on Split's Riva is an all-day Mediterranean kitchen with French-Croatian dishes, from breakfast platters through to grilled fish at midnight.
Signature: Hand-cut tagliatelle, Riva breakfast platter, Grilled sea bream
Order: Hand-cut tagliatelle with Adriatic prawns and aged tomato.
Tip: Daily 08:00 to 23:00; the Riva terrace is best at sunset, when the kitchen pivots from brunch to grill.
Uje Oil Bar inside Split's Diocletian Palace is the city's Dalmatian small-plates room, built on olive oil tastings, paski sir and Dalmatian prsut.
Signature: Olive oil tasting board, Paski sir with prsut, Brac soparnik
Order: Olive oil flight with the cured-meat board and aged paski sir.
Tip: Order the olive oil tasting flight as a starter; the kitchen will pair it with the cured-meat and aged paski sir board.
Bokeria Kitchen & Wine in Split's Old Town is a tall-ceiling stone room cooking modern Mediterranean dishes from a wood-burning grill into the night.
Signature: Adriatic tuna tartare, Bone-in steak, Tagliatelle with prawns
Order: Tagliatelle with Adriatic prawns, with a glass of Posip from Korcula.
Tip: Late-evening sitting works; the dining room shifts into a wine bar mood after 22:00, with bottle-cellar pours kept until 01:00.
Konoba Gregolevante on Bosanska in Split's Old Town is a small cave-like room tucked into a quiet alley, cooking seafood from the morning Ribarnica buy.
Signature: Daily Adriatic catch grilled, Black cuttlefish risotto, Octopus salad
Order: The daily grilled Adriatic fish with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Cash is the safe bet; the room is intimate so book ahead for the dinner sitting in summer.
