Konoba Hvaranin on Ban Mladenova in Split's Veli Varos is a tight family-run room with the city's writers and journalists at the small tables.
Signature dishes: Gregada Hvar-style, White risotto with mussels, Rozata caramel
Must order: Gregada Hvar-style stew with rozata to finish.
Tip: Mon-Sat 15:00 to 23:00, closed Sundays; seating is limited, book the dinner sitting.
Address: Ban Mladenova 9, 21000 Split, Croatia
Konoba Marjan at the foot of the Marjan trail in Split serves classic Dalmatian dishes from a tiny kitchen in a centuries-old Veli Varos stone house.
Signature: Pasticada, Soparnik, Grilled fish platter
Order: Pasticada with gnocchi.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; small terrace, book ahead in peak season.
Trattoria Tinel in Split's Veli Varos is an Italian-leaning Dalmatian trattoria 30 metres from the Riva on Tomica Stine, open daily 08:00 to midnight.
Signature: Hand-cut tagliatelle, Cuttlefish risotto, Whole fish grilled
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto and a glass of Korcula Posip.
Tip: Best for late lunch from 14:00 when the room calms after the Riva crowd; the by-the-glass list runs Croatian-only.
Konoba Marjan at the foot of the Marjan trail in Split serves classic Dalmatian dishes from a tiny kitchen in a centuries-old Veli Varos stone house.
Signature: Pasticada, Soparnik, Grilled fish platter
Order: Pasticada with gnocchi.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; small terrace, book ahead in peak season.
Trattoria Tinel in Split's Veli Varos is an Italian-leaning Dalmatian trattoria 30 metres from the Riva on Tomica Stine, open daily 08:00 to midnight.
Signature: Hand-cut tagliatelle, Cuttlefish risotto, Whole fish grilled
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto and a glass of Korcula Posip.
Tip: Best for late lunch from 14:00 when the room calms after the Riva crowd; the by-the-glass list runs Croatian-only.
Pizzeria Galija on Toncieva in Split is the city's oldest pizzeria, opened in 1980, still pulling pizzas off a wood-fired oven that has not gone cold since.
Signature: Margherita, Galija sea-salt focaccia, Calzone
Order: Margherita with the wood-fired char on the crust.
Tip: Open daily 10:00 to 24:00; queue at the door for a table from 19:30 in summer.
Bajamonti on Split's Prokurative square is an arcaded all-day kitchen that runs a steakhouse, a wood-fired pizzeria and a seaside fish house under one roof.
Signature: Dry-aged steak, Wood-fired pizza, Whole grilled fish
Order: Dry-aged ribeye with house ajvar and roasted potatoes.
Tip: Open 07:30 to midnight; the steakhouse menu is dry-aged Croatian beef, and the pizza ovens lit through service from 12:00.
Brasserie on 7 on Split's Riva is an all-day Mediterranean kitchen with French-Croatian dishes, from breakfast platters through to grilled fish at midnight.
Signature: Hand-cut tagliatelle, Riva breakfast platter, Grilled sea bream
Order: Hand-cut tagliatelle with Adriatic prawns and aged tomato.
Tip: Daily 08:00 to 23:00; the Riva terrace is best at sunset, when the kitchen pivots from brunch to grill.
Uje Oil Bar inside Split's Diocletian Palace is the city's Dalmatian small-plates room, built on olive oil tastings, paski sir and Dalmatian prsut.
Signature: Olive oil tasting board, Paski sir with prsut, Brac soparnik
Order: Olive oil flight with the cured-meat board and aged paski sir.
Tip: Order the olive oil tasting flight as a starter; the kitchen will pair it with the cured-meat and aged paski sir board.
