The old fishermen and farmers quarter, climbing the south slope of Marjan. Stone alleys, family konobas and the closest thing Split has to a village.
Konoba Fetivi in Split's Veli Varos is the Bib Gourmand family konoba on Tomica Stine, cooking grilled Adriatic fish and pasticada to a daily Pazar buy.
Signature: Grilled Adriatic fish, Pasticada with gnocchi, Crni rizot
Order: Whole grilled white fish by weight with chard and potatoes, brudet on the side.
Tip: Tue-Sun 15:00 to 23:30, closed Mondays; book ahead for the early dinner sitting and the best whole fish go by 21:00.
Konoba Varos in Split's old fishermen quarter of Veli Varos serves classic Dalmatian comfort cooking, in a stone-walled room behind the Church of St Francis.
Signature: Pasticada with gnocchi, Black risotto, Grilled squid
Order: Pasticada with homemade gnocchi.
Tip: Open 09:00 to 24:00; weekday lunch is calmer than the August evening crush, and the seafood platters are sized for two.
Konoba Matejuska in Split's Veli Varos is a family-run room in a 19th-century UNESCO stone house, cooking the day's market catch over a wood fire.
Signature: Black cuttlefish risotto, Grilled daily catch, Octopus salad
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto with the chef's pour of Brac olive oil.
Tip: Cash preferred; the small terrace fills early in summer, so go for a 19:30 dinner or a late 21:30 sitting.
Sperun Eat and Drink just below Veli Varos in Split is a small-terrace konoba pouring local wine and grilling Adriatic fish daily, kept open through midnight.
Signature: Grilled sardines, Whole sea bass, Grilled squid
Order: Whole grilled squid with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Closed Mondays; book ahead for the terrace in July and August or arrive at 19:00 for a walk-up table.
Trattoria Tinel in Veli Varos, Split is an Italian-leaning Dalmatian trattoria 30 metres from the Riva on Tomica Stine, open daily 08:00 to midnight.
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto and a glass of Korcula Posip.
Tip: Best for late lunch from 14:00 when the room calms after the Riva crowd; the by-the-glass list runs Croatian-only.
Artičok at the edge of Veli Varos in Split is a small modern Croatian room with a rooftop terrace just off the Riva, holding 14.5 of 20 from Gault Millau.
Order: Jerusalem artichoke risotto and the smoked trout with creme fraiche.
Tip: Book the rooftop terrace at sunset for the strongest table; the kitchen leans on wild herbs and Adriatic seafood.
Konoba Fetivi in Split's Veli Varos is the Bib Gourmand family konoba on Tomica Stine, cooking grilled Adriatic fish and pasticada to a daily Pazar buy.
Signature: Grilled Adriatic fish, Pasticada with gnocchi, Crni rizot
Order: Whole grilled white fish by weight with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Tue-Sun 15:00 to 23:30, closed Mondays; book ahead for the early dinner sitting and the best whole fish go by 21:00.
Konoba Varos in Split's old fishermen quarter of Veli Varos serves classic Dalmatian comfort cooking, in a stone-walled room behind the Church of St Francis.
Signature: Pasticada with gnocchi, Black risotto, Grilled squid
Order: Pasticada with homemade gnocchi.
Tip: Open 09:00 to 24:00; weekday lunch is calmer than the August evening crush, and the seafood platters are sized for two.
Konoba Matejuska in Split's Veli Varos is a family-run room in a 19th-century UNESCO stone house, cooking the day's market catch over a wood fire.
Signature: Black cuttlefish risotto, Grilled daily catch, Octopus salad
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto with the chef's pour of Brac olive oil.
Tip: Cash preferred; the small terrace fills early in summer, so go for a 19:30 dinner or a late 21:30 sitting.
Sperun Eat and Drink just below Veli Varos in Split is a small-terrace konoba pouring local wine and grilling Adriatic fish daily, kept open through midnight.
Signature: Grilled sardines, Whole sea bass, Grilled squid
Order: Whole grilled squid with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Closed Mondays; book ahead for the terrace in July and August or arrive at 19:00 for a walk-up table.
Konoba Hvaranin on Ban Mladenova in Split's Veli Varos is a tight family-run room with the city's writers and journalists at the small tables.
Signature: Gregada Hvar-style, White risotto with mussels, Rozata caramel
Order: Gregada Hvar-style stew with rozata to finish.
Tip: Mon-Sat 15:00 to 23:00, closed Sundays; seating is limited, book the dinner sitting.
Konoba Marjan at the foot of the Marjan trail in Split serves classic Dalmatian dishes from a tiny kitchen in a centuries-old Veli Varos stone house.
Signature: Pasticada, Soparnik, Grilled fish platter
Order: Pasticada with gnocchi.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; small terrace, book ahead in peak season.
Trattoria Tinel in Split's Veli Varos is an Italian-leaning Dalmatian trattoria 30 metres from the Riva on Tomica Stine, open daily 08:00 to midnight.
Signature: Hand-cut tagliatelle, Cuttlefish risotto, Whole fish grilled
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto and a glass of Korcula Posip.
Tip: Best for late lunch from 14:00 when the room calms after the Riva crowd; the by-the-glass list runs Croatian-only.
Konoba Varos in Split's Veli Varos serves a sturdy konoba lunch with pasticada and grilled fish keeping most plates between €12 and €22.
Try: Pasticada and grilled fish konoba lunch
Order: Pasticada with gnocchi (marenda special when on).
Tip: The marenda lunch board (mid-morning, 10:00 to 12:00) is the cheapest sitting.