Bokeria Kitchen & Wine in Split's Old Town is a tall-ceiling stone room cooking modern Mediterranean dishes from a wood-burning grill into the night.
Signature dishes: Adriatic tuna tartare, Bone-in steak, Tagliatelle with prawns
Must order: Tagliatelle with Adriatic prawns, with a glass of Posip from Korcula.
Tip: Late-evening sitting works; the dining room shifts into a wine bar mood after 22:00, with bottle-cellar pours kept until 01:00.
Address: Domaldova ul. 8, 21000 Split, Croatia
Konoba Gregolevante on Bosanska in Split's Old Town is a small cave-like room tucked into a quiet alley, cooking seafood from the morning Ribarnica buy.
Signature: Daily Adriatic catch grilled, Black cuttlefish risotto, Octopus salad
Order: The daily grilled Adriatic fish with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Cash is the safe bet; the room is intimate so book ahead for the dinner sitting in summer.
Villa Spiza in Split's Diocletian Palace runs a handwritten daily board sourced from the morning Pazar, with around 14 cult-followed counter seats.
Signature: Daily handwritten board, Fish in gregada, Wild boar with gnocchi
Order: Whatever the handwritten board lists as the daily fish in gregada.
Tip: Walk-in only at 13:00 for the first sitting; the board changes daily and the small room rotates fast on the second turn.
Konoba Gregolevante on Bosanska in Split's Old Town is a small cave-like room tucked into a quiet alley, cooking seafood from the morning Ribarnica buy.
Signature: Daily Adriatic catch grilled, Black cuttlefish risotto, Octopus salad
Order: The daily grilled Adriatic fish with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Cash is the safe bet; the room is intimate so book ahead for the dinner sitting in summer.
Konoba Fetivi in Split's Veli Varos is the Bib Gourmand family konoba on Tomica Stine, cooking grilled Adriatic fish and pasticada to a daily Pazar buy.
Signature: Grilled Adriatic fish, Pasticada with gnocchi, Crni rizot
Order: Whole grilled white fish by weight with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Tue-Sun 15:00 to 23:30, closed Mondays; book ahead for the early dinner sitting and the best whole fish go by 21:00.
Konoba Varos in Split's old fishermen quarter of Veli Varos serves classic Dalmatian comfort cooking, in a stone-walled room behind the Church of St Francis.
Signature: Pasticada with gnocchi, Black risotto, Grilled squid
Order: Pasticada with homemade gnocchi.
Tip: Open 09:00 to 24:00; weekday lunch is calmer than the August evening crush, and the seafood platters are sized for two.
Konoba Matejuska in Split's Veli Varos is a family-run room in a 19th-century UNESCO stone house, cooking the day's market catch over a wood fire.
Signature: Black cuttlefish risotto, Grilled daily catch, Octopus salad
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto with the chef's pour of Brac olive oil.
Tip: Cash preferred; the small terrace fills early in summer, so go for a 19:30 dinner or a late 21:30 sitting.
Sperun Eat and Drink just below Veli Varos in Split is a small-terrace konoba pouring local wine and grilling Adriatic fish daily, kept open through midnight.
Signature: Grilled sardines, Whole sea bass, Grilled squid
Order: Whole grilled squid with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Closed Mondays; book ahead for the terrace in July and August or arrive at 19:00 for a walk-up table.
Villa Spiza in Split's Diocletian Palace runs a handwritten daily board sourced from the morning Pazar, with around 14 cult-followed counter seats.
Signature: Daily handwritten board, Fish in gregada, Wild boar with gnocchi
Order: Whatever the handwritten board lists as the daily fish in gregada.
Tip: Walk-in only at 13:00 for the first sitting; the board changes daily and the small room rotates fast on the second turn.
