Empada is a small crumbly pie with a lid, baked with shrimp, siri crab, palm heart or chicken; Rio's botequins sell it from the counter next to a draught chope.
The empada probably descends from the large Portuguese pastelões; by the 19th century the small ones were called empadas de caixa, and they served as meals on Catholic days of abstinence from beef and pork. Rio's botequim tradition lists empadas filled with shrimp, palm heart, cheese, siri or cod, and Restaurante Salete in Tijuca built its name on its house-made dough.
Bar Urca sells pastéis and empadas de camarão from a counter on Rua Cândido Gaffrée in Urca, Rio de Janeiro, to eat on the Guanabara Bay wall opposite.
OrderEmpada de camarão or siri, bolinho de bacalhau with Serra da Estrela cheese, fried sardines.
TipOrder at the counter and carry the plates across the street to the mureta for the bay view; the bar opens at 09:00.
Restaurante Salete has served empadas and shrimp risotto on Rua Afonso Pena in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, since 1957, in a kitchen with Spanish influence.
OrderEmpadas with chicken, palm heart or shrimp, then the shrimp risotto, sized for two or three.
TipWeekend and holiday service ends at 20:00, and the room is shut on Mondays; the risotto portion feeds two or three.
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