Moqueca is a stew of fish or seafood with tomato, onion and coriander, brought to Rio from Bahia; vegetarian versions use heart of palm in place of the fish.
The name comes from Quimbundo mu'keka, a fish stew, or Tupi opokeka, to make a wrapping. Some scholars link the dish to the Portuguese peixada, with African ingredients added; the Bahian version uses dendê palm oil and sometimes coconut milk, and is cooked in a clay pot. Rio drew heavily on Bahia for seafood and Afro-Brazilian dishes, moqueca among them, and today's menus range from shrimp to peach-palm hearts.
Aconchego Carioca in Praça da Bandeira is chef Kátia Barbosa's house, birthplace of the bolinho de feijoada, with Northeastern dishes, in Rio de Janeiro.
OrderThe bolinho de feijoada, filled with kale and topped with pork crackling, with a lime batidinha
TipThe moqueca of peach-palm hearts with banana-da-terra suits vegetarians; the beer list runs to about 50 labels, many from craft brewers.
Bar Lagoa has served German-leaning dishes and moqueca on Avenida Epitácio Pessoa since 1934, a Lagoa restaurant in Rio de Janeiro with bow-tied waiters.
OrderTornedor à Lagoa with bacon, peas and palm hearts, or the joelho de porco.
TipWaiters work the white-tablecloth room in bow ties, so treat it as a sit-down lunch rather than a quick chope.
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