Pastel de feira is a thin rectangle of wheat dough filled with cheese, meat or shrimp and fried to order, the fair-day snack that Rio pairs with a glass of caldo de cana.
The pastel is an immigrant dish with two accounts: one traces it to Chinese spring rolls sold from about 1890, the other to Japanese families in Santos in the 1940s who swapped sake for cachaça in the dough. The habit reached Rio in the 1950s. A food writer quoted by Problemas Brasileiros calls caldo de cana the pastel's perfect partner at street fairs, and Rio's bars now sell it too, among them Bar Urca with its siri filling.
Bar Urca sells pastéis and empadas de camarão from a counter on Rua Cândido Gaffrée in Urca, Rio de Janeiro, to eat on the Guanabara Bay wall opposite.
OrderEmpada de camarão or siri, bolinho de bacalhau with Serra da Estrela cheese, fried sardines.
TipOrder at the counter and carry the plates across the street to the mureta for the bay view; the bar opens at 09:00.
Beco do Rato is a samba house on Rua Joaquim Silva in Lapa, Rio de Janeiro, with music every day and a Saturday feijoada with a samba roda in the afternoon.
TipFrom November 2025 Saturdays open at midday: entry is free until 14:00, then R$25 when the roda de samba starts.
Siri Tijuca is a seafood house on Rua dos Artistas in Vila Isabel, Rio de Janeiro, open since 1963, with pratos-feitos under R$30 and a siri pastel at R$8.90.
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