A Zona Norte boteco district: blue-and-white tiled Bar Varnhagen, Bar do Momo's petiscos, bakeries and a growing coffee scene.
Tio Juca, on Rua General Espírito Santo Cardoso in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, placed fourth in Comida di Buteco 2026 with a pressed beef rib on a crisp base.
OrderThe pressed beef rib, seared on the griddle on a crisp base with watercress sauce.
TipDoors open at 18:00 Tuesday to Friday and at 13:00 on weekends, and everything closes at 22:00; the R$40 rib was the contest entry, so ask before you go.
Bento Pizzeria Napoletana bakes Neapolitan pizzas on Rua Afonso Pena in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, and ranked 11th in 50 Top Pizza Latin America 2026.
OrderThe Bento pizza: pomodoro pelati, fior di latte, house calabresa, gorgonzola and chilli oil.
TipThe room seats 55 and opens Tuesday to Sunday evenings only, from 18:00, so arrive early on weekends.
Bar Varnhagen has kept its blue-and-white tiles and formica counter on a Tijuca square in Rio de Janeiro since 1944, serving rabada and bolinho de bacalhau.
OrderRabada with potato, watercress, rice, beans and farofa, or the mini feijoada.
TipIt closes at 17:30, so treat it as a lunch stop; on Saturdays bird breeders hang their cages on the trees outside.
Bar do Momo, a Tijuca botequim on Rua General Espírito Santo Cardoso in Rio de Janeiro, is known for its bolinho de arroz with calabresa and cheese.
OrderBolinho de arroz with calabresa and cheese, or the 'entre o torresmo e a moela' on sweet-potato purée.
TipFeijoada runs from Friday to Sunday; the bar is shut on Tuesdays, and Sunday service ends at 18:00.
Restaurante Salete has served empadas and shrimp risotto on Rua Afonso Pena in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, since 1957, in a kitchen with Spanish influence.
OrderEmpadas with chicken, palm heart or shrimp, then the shrimp risotto, sized for two or three.
TipWeekend and holiday service ends at 20:00, and the room is shut on Mondays; the risotto portion feeds two or three.
Cedro Coffee Office is a specialty cafe and home-office space on Rua Uruguai in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, open Tuesday to Saturday, serving special-bean coffee.
Madura Coffee serves espresso and filter coffee at its Tijuca roastery in Rio de Janeiro from Thursday to Sunday, with desserts made using the house roast.
DrinkEspresso
Dianna Bakery bakes sourdough, brioche, focaccia, cakes and tarts, with specialty coffee, in a pastry shop on Rua Dona Delfina in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro.
Worth the queueSourdough loaf
Meziat Boulangerie sells buttery croissants, pain au chocolat and sourdough baguettes from a pink shopfront on Rua Conde de Bonfim in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro.
Worth the queuePain au chocolat
Pane di Lu is a small bakery on Rua Desembargador Izidro in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, selling levain breads, croissants, fine pastry and seasonal panettone.
Worth the queueSourdough with Serra da Canastra cheese and biquinho pepper
TipNaturally fermented panettone and seasonal sweets are the items shoppers ask for most; the shop closes at 15:30 on Saturdays.
Madura Coffee is a roastery and cafe in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, open Thursday to Sunday, serving espresso and filter coffee with desserts made from its roast.
BrewsEspresso, Filter
TipOpen Thursday to Sunday only; the dessert menu includes a tiramisu made with an exclusive roast and a shakerato.
Artemis Torrefação Artesanal micro-roasts specialty coffee in small batches in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, and teaches barista courses of up to six students.
BrewsWhole bean retail, Ground coffee, Barista courses
TipIts four house blends, Fulgor, Hera, Muricata and Dândi, are natural-process medium roasts sold in 250 g bags with the roast date on the pack.
Patas e Rolhas is a pet-friendly wine bar and café on Rua Uruguai in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, where a dispenser pours 18 wines in 50, 100 or 150 ml measures.
PourAny of 18 dispenser wines in 50, 100 or 150 ml measures
WineMore than 250 Brazilian and imported labels, with a wine shop
FoodSharing plates, sandwiches and specialty coffee
TipFixed nights run through the week, such as a wine rodízio on Thursdays; the operator says all pets are welcome.
Bar do Momo is a Tijuca botequim in Rio de Janeiro where cold beer comes with petiscos such as bolinho de arroz, bolovo de bacalhau and coxinha de rabada.
DrinkBatidinha de coco or maracujá, with bottled beer and classic drinks
FoodBolinho de arroz, bolovo de bacalhau and coxinha de rabada; feijoada Friday to Sunday
TipRiotur lists the bar open Monday and Wednesday to Saturday from 12:00 to 22:00, and Sunday until 18:00; it is closed Tuesday.
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