Banh mi$district-1Daily 06:00-22:00
Tu Hai is a cheap banh mi counter near the Da Kao end of Dinh Tien Hoang, known for the thin banh mi que pate sticks that locals snack on all day.
Try: Banh mi que
Order: A bag of banh mi que, the slim pate baguette sticks.
Tip: The pate sticks are made for snacking; buy several, they cost next to nothing.
Vietnamese$district-3Daily 10:00-20:00
Bun Mam Co Cuc ladles the Mekong Delta's pungent fermented-fish noodle soup, a dark, deep broth loaded with squid, prawn and roast pork on Nguyen Thien Thuat.
Try: Bun mam
Order: The full bun mam with squid, prawn and roast pork.
Tip: The fermented-fish broth is an acquired taste; pile on the herbs and eggplant to balance it.
Vietnamese$district-3Daily 09:00-21:00
This District 3 alley kitchen specialises in central-Vietnamese bun mam nem, cold vermicelli with grilled pork, herbs and a punchy fermented-anchovy dressing.
Try: Bun mam nem
Order: Bun mam nem with grilled pork and plenty of herbs.
Tip: It sits down a narrow lane; the fermented-anchovy sauce is the whole point, so do not skip it.
Vietnamese$phu-nhuanDaily 08:00-21:00
Com Tam Ba Ghien serves the Bib Gourmand broken-rice plate that made it famous: an oversized caramelised grilled pork chop over broken rice.
Try: Com tam suon
Order: Com tam with the giant grilled pork chop and a fried egg.
Tip: It is a Michelin-listed bargain; the pork chop alone feeds most appetites.
Banh mi$district-1Daily 04:00-23:00
Banh Mi Hong Hoa is a bakery-and-stall near Ben Thanh where warm baguettes come stuffed with cold cuts and pate for a fraction of a sit-down meal.
Try: Cold-cut banh mi
Order: The mixed cold-cut banh mi with extra pickles.
Tip: Bread is baked through the day, so the baguette is almost always warm and crisp.
Vietnamese$district-5Daily 15:00-23:00
Xoi Ga Number One is a Michelin Selected spot for its cheap plate of sticky rice topped with a fried chicken drumstick, scallion oil and crisp shallots.
Try: Xoi ga
Order: Xoi ga with a fried chicken drumstick and scallion oil.
Tip: It runs into the evening; the fried chicken version is the one regulars order.