Eat well in Ho Chi Minh City without overpaying: the locals'-budget edition.
Eat well in Ho Chi Minh City for under €15 a plate: the places locals on a budget actually use.
Tu Hai is a cheap banh mi counter near the Da Kao end of Dinh Tien Hoang, known for the thin banh mi que pate sticks that locals snack on all day.
OrderA bag of banh mi que, the slim pate baguette sticks.
TipThe pate sticks are made for snacking; buy several, they cost next to nothing.
Bun Mam Co Cuc ladles the Mekong Delta's pungent fermented-fish noodle soup, a dark, deep broth loaded with squid, prawn and roast pork on Nguyen Thien Thuat.
OrderThe full bun mam with squid, prawn and roast pork.
TipThe fermented-fish broth is an acquired taste; pile on the herbs and eggplant to balance it.
This District 3 alley kitchen specialises in central-Vietnamese bun mam nem, cold vermicelli with grilled pork, herbs and a punchy fermented-anchovy dressing.
OrderBun mam nem with grilled pork and plenty of herbs.
TipIt sits down a narrow lane; the fermented-anchovy sauce is the whole point, so do not skip it.
Com Tam Ba Ghien serves the Bib Gourmand broken-rice plate that made it famous: an oversized caramelised grilled pork chop over broken rice.
OrderCom tam with the giant grilled pork chop and a fried egg.
TipIt is a Michelin-listed bargain; the pork chop alone feeds most appetites.
Banh Mi Hong Hoa is a bakery-and-stall near Ben Thanh where warm baguettes come stuffed with cold cuts and pate for a fraction of a sit-down meal.
OrderThe mixed cold-cut banh mi with extra pickles.
TipBread is baked through the day, so the baguette is almost always warm and crisp.
Xoi Ga Number One is a Michelin Selected spot for its cheap plate of sticky rice topped with a fried chicken drumstick, scallion oil and crisp shallots.
OrderXoi ga with a fried chicken drumstick and scallion oil.
TipIt runs into the evening; the fried chicken version is the one regulars order.
Di Tam is one of Saigon's oldest broken-rice stalls, a Tan Dinh fixture plating com tam with a charcoal-grilled pork chop, egg and pickles for a few dollars.
OrderCom tam suon with a grilled pork chop and egg.
TipIt is central District 1 but still cheap; go at lunch when the grill is at full tilt.
This Co Giang stall serves a bargain bowl of bun rieu, the tomato-and-crab-paste noodle soup, for around 28,000 dong, one of the cheapest sit-down meals.
OrderA bowl of bun rieu cua with tofu and tomato.
TipAt under thirty thousand dong it is a genuine bargain in the centre; go for an early lunch.
Down an alley off Ho Hao Hon, this old Chinese-Vietnamese counter serves cheap egg-noodle and wonton soups for breakfast, a longtime local favourite.
OrderMi hoanh thanh, egg noodles with wontons in clear broth.
TipIt is a morning spot down a hem; go for an early, filling and very cheap breakfast bowl.
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