Mexican$$soulard
The Cali-style taco group formerly known as Mission Taco, Session Taco plates street tacos, margaritas and local beer at its Historic Soulard room.
Order: Cali-style street tacos and a margarita.
Tip: The street tacos and fresh margaritas are the order. A second branch runs on Delmar in the Loop.
Seafood$$$benton-park
Gerard Craft's Benton Park seafood shack plates lobster rolls, oysters and a New England clam boil, a casual coastal counter in a landlocked city.
Order: Lobster roll and the New England clam boil.
Tip: The lobster roll is the signature; go Connecticut-style with warm butter. It is no-reservations and fills fast.
Italian and Greek$$the-hill
A family taverna on The Hill, Anthonino's blends Italian and Greek cooking, from toasted ravioli to spanakopita, a casual room popular with families.
Order: Toasted ravioli and the Greek-Italian pastas.
Tip: The toasted ravioli and the Greek-Italian crossover dishes are the draws. It fills with families at weekends.
Pizza$$st-louis-hills
Onesto fires Neapolitan-leaning pizza and Italian plates in a small St. Louis Hills room, a neighbourhood trattoria that draws south-side pizza devotees.
Order: Wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizza.
Tip: The wood-fired pies are the order; the room is small, so reserve at weekends. A good non-Provel pizza option.
Pizza and pasta$$$rock-hill
Katie Collier's Rock Hill osteria fires blistered pizzas and plates house-made pasta in a buzzy room, a polished casual Italian with several metro branches.
Order: Wood-fired pizza and house-made pasta.
Tip: The wood-fired pizzas and the burrata are the orders. Reserve ahead; the Rock Hill room stays busy.
St. Louis-style pizza$$downtown
The chain that made St. Louis-style pizza a city standard, Imo's tops cracker-thin crust with Provel cheese, cut in squares, an essential local taste.
Order: St. Louis-style Provel pizza, tavern-cut.
Tip: Order it tavern-cut into squares. Provel is the defining St. Louis cheese; this is where to try it.