Italian and Greek$$the-hill
A family taverna on The Hill, Anthonino's blends Italian and Greek cooking, from toasted ravioli to spanakopita, a casual room popular with families.
Order: Toasted ravioli and the Greek-Italian pastas.
Tip: The toasted ravioli and the Greek-Italian crossover dishes are the draws. It fills with families at weekends.
Pizza$$st-louis-hills
Onesto fires Neapolitan-leaning pizza and Italian plates in a small St. Louis Hills room, a neighbourhood trattoria that draws south-side pizza devotees.
Order: Wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizza.
Tip: The wood-fired pies are the order; the room is small, so reserve at weekends. A good non-Provel pizza option.
Pizza and pasta$$$rock-hill
Katie Collier's Rock Hill osteria fires blistered pizzas and plates house-made pasta in a buzzy room, a polished casual Italian with several metro branches.
Order: Wood-fired pizza and house-made pasta.
Tip: The wood-fired pizzas and the burrata are the orders. Reserve ahead; the Rock Hill room stays busy.
St. Louis-style pizza$$downtown
The chain that made St. Louis-style pizza a city standard, Imo's tops cracker-thin crust with Provel cheese, cut in squares, an essential local taste.
Order: St. Louis-style Provel pizza, tavern-cut.
Tip: Order it tavern-cut into squares. Provel is the defining St. Louis cheese; this is where to try it.
Soda fountain and sandwiches$old-north
Open since 1913, Crown Candy is the metro's oldest soda fountain, slinging hand-made malts, a towering BLT and chili in an Old North parlour frozen in time.
Order: A hand-made malt and the towering, bacon-heavy BLT.
Tip: Take the malt challenge or split the BLT. Expect a weekend line at one of the city's oldest counters.
Sandwiches$benton-park
A Benton Park sandwich counter, Blues City turns out New Orleans-style po-boys and muffulettas with live blues some afternoons, a lunch-only institution.
Order: The muffuletta or one of the New Orleans po-boys.
Tip: The muffuletta and po-boys are the orders; arrive before the lunch rush. Live blues plays some afternoons.