$$$$
CantoneseChinatown
Yuet Lee in San Francisco is the Chinatown all-night Cantonese counter at Stockton and Broadway, open to 03:00, with salt-and-pepper squid the late shift.
OrderSalt and pepper squid, plus a steamed live fish from the tank.
TipCash only after midnight; the kitchen window seats fill the fastest at 23:30.
$$$$
Cantonese Dim SumChinatown
Good Mong Kok in San Francisco is the Stockton Street Cantonese takeaway window the city actually eats at on weekends, with hot trays out from 07:00-18:00.
OrderChar siu bao and a tray of har gow; ten items for under fifteen dollars.
TipCash only; bring a clear list of items because the line behind you moves at speed.
$$$$
ItalianDogpatch
Piccino in San Francisco is the Dogpatch Italian on a yellow corner, with wood-oven pizza. Priced at $$$. At 1001 Minnesota Street. Booking recommended.
OrderWood-oven mushroom and ricotta pizza, plus the seasonal pasta of the night.
TipBrunch the patio in spring; the cafe next door pours the same coffee at half the price.
$$$$
PakistaniLower Pac Heights
Shalimar in San Francisco is the Tenderloin's cash-and-card Pakistani counter, with a tandoor at the door turning out solid chicken tikka under fifteen.
OrderChicken tikka from the tandoor, with garlic naan and dal.
TipEat at the back of the room; the front benches give you a view of the tandoor cook at speed.
$$$$
VietnameseLower Pac Heights
Saigon Sandwich in San Francisco is the Larkin Street banh mi window: six bucks for a roll, with a fast line out the door by noon every weekday.
OrderPork banh mi number one with extra pate, and a Vietnamese iced coffee.
TipCash only; order four at once and bring them home; the bread stays good for three hours wrapped.
$$$$
Mexican TaqueriaThe Mission
Taqueria Cancun in San Francisco is the Mission taqueria on 16th and Mission, the baseline burrito mojado the city falls back on, open late every night.
OrderThe burrito mojado, smothered in three sauces (guacamole, sour cream, salsa roja) and a side of horchata.
TipMission and 16th is the busiest of the three locations; the 24th Street branch at 3211 Mission has a shorter line at lunch.