Brenda's French Soul Food in San Francisco is Brenda Buenviaje's Creole counter on Polk Street, with crawfish beignets and a strong brunch shrimp and grits.
Signature dishes: Crawfish beignets, Shrimp & grits, Hangtown Fry
Must order: A flight of beignets: plain, chocolate, granny apple and crawfish.
Tip: No reservations; arrive at 09:00 sharp or join the digital waitlist that opens at 08:30.
Address: 652 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94102
Shalimar in San Francisco is the Tenderloin's cash-and-card Pakistani counter, with a tandoor at the door turning out solid chicken tikka under fifteen dollars.
Signature: Chicken tikka, Lamb karahi, Garlic naan
Order: Chicken tikka from the tandoor, with garlic naan and dal.
Tip: Eat at the back of the room; the front benches give you a view of the tandoor cook at speed.
Saigon Sandwich in San Francisco is the Larkin Street banh mi window: six bucks for a roll, with a fast line out the door by noon every weekday.
Signature: Pork banh mi, Vietnamese iced coffee
Order: Pork banh mi number one with extra pate, and a Vietnamese iced coffee.
Tip: Cash only; order four at once and bring them home; the bread stays good for three hours wrapped.
Yuet Lee in San Francisco is the Chinatown all-night Cantonese counter at Stockton and Broadway, open to 03:00, with salt-and-pepper squid the late shift orders.
Signature: Salt and pepper squid, Beef chow fun, Steamed live fish
Order: Salt and pepper squid, plus a steamed live fish from the tank.
Tip: Cash only after midnight; the kitchen window seats fill the fastest at 23:30.
Good Mong Kok in San Francisco is the Stockton Street Cantonese takeaway window the city actually eats at on weekends, with hot trays out from 07:00 to 18:00.
Signature: Char siu bao, Shrimp dumplings, Egg tarts
Order: Char siu bao and a tray of har gow; ten items for under fifteen dollars.
Tip: Cash only; bring a clear list of items because the line behind you moves at speed.
Piccino in San Francisco is the Dogpatch Italian on a yellow corner, with wood-oven pizza, a corner cafe and a wisteria-shaded patio that fills in May.
Signature: Wood-oven pizza, Garganelli, Wood-grilled chicken
Order: Wood-oven mushroom and ricotta pizza, plus the seasonal pasta of the night.
Tip: Brunch the patio in spring; the cafe next door pours the same coffee at half the price.
Shalimar in San Francisco is the Tenderloin's cash-and-card Pakistani counter, with a tandoor at the door turning out solid chicken tikka under fifteen dollars.
Signature: Chicken tikka, Lamb karahi, Garlic naan
Order: Chicken tikka from the tandoor, with garlic naan and dal.
Tip: Eat at the back of the room; the front benches give you a view of the tandoor cook at speed.
Saigon Sandwich in San Francisco is the Larkin Street banh mi window: six bucks for a roll, with a fast line out the door by noon every weekday.
Signature: Pork banh mi, Vietnamese iced coffee
Order: Pork banh mi number one with extra pate, and a Vietnamese iced coffee.
Tip: Cash only; order four at once and bring them home; the bread stays good for three hours wrapped.
Taqueria Cancun in San Francisco is the Mission taqueria on 16th and Mission, the baseline burrito mojado the city falls back on, open late every night.
Signature: Burrito mojado, Al pastor super burrito, Carne asada quesadilla
Order: The burrito mojado, smothered in three sauces (guacamole, sour cream, salsa roja) and a side of horchata.
Tip: Mission and 16th is the busiest of the three locations; the 24th Street branch at 3211 Mission has a shorter line at lunch.
