Modern Steakhouse$$$$river-northMon-Thu 16:00-21:00; Fri 16:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00; Sun 15:00-21:00
RPM Steak in Chicago is the marble-and-leather River North steakhouse on Kinzie from the Melman family of Lettuce Entertain You, with A5 Wagyu sliders.
Signature: A5 Wagyu sliders, Dry-aged ribeye
Order: A5 Wagyu sliders to start, the dry-aged ribeye for two, popovers as the side.
Tip: Sit at the bar if you cannot land a booth. The bar menu is the same and the cocktails arrive faster.
Modern Mexican$$$$river-northTue-Fri 11:30-14:00; Tue-Thu 17:30-21:30; Fri-Sat 17:30-22:30; Sun-Mon closed
Topolobampo in Chicago is Rick Bayless's Michelin-starred Mexican fine-dining room beside Frontera on Clark, with regional menus that rotate every six weeks.
Signature: Suckling pig in mole, Tasting-menu ceviches
Order: Whichever mole is on the current tasting menu; Bayless has been cooking them in Chicago since 1989.
Tip: Reservations open 60 days out and the Friday slot goes in an hour. Set a calendar alarm.
Regional Mexican$$$river-northTue-Thu 11:30-14:00; Tue-Thu 16:30-21:00; Fri-Sat 11:30-14:00; Fri-Sat 16:30-22:00; Sun-Mon closed
Frontera Grill in Chicago is Rick Bayless's 1987 Clark Street Mexican dining room beside Topolobampo, the kitchen that brought regional Mexican.
Signature: Carne asada, Cochinita pibil
Order: Carne asada with handmade tortillas; the cochinita pibil if the Yucatan menu is running.
Tip: Walk in at 17:00 on a weekday for the bar; the booths fill by 18:30 most nights.
Italian$$logan-squareWed-Thu 17:00-22:00, Fri 17:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Sat 17:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, Sun 17:00-22:00
Daisies in Chicago is Joe Frillman's Logan Square pasta-and-vegetable dining room on Milwaukee Avenue, with grain and produce sourced directly from Illinois.
Signature: Cavatelli with ragu, House-made focaccia
Order: Cavatelli with whatever ragu is current; the focaccia first, while you wait.
Tip: Brunch is the underrated meal here. The same pasta program with eggs and patio seating in summer.
Japanese ramen$$river-northMon-Wed 11:00-23:00; Thu 11:00-00:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 11:00-23:00
Ramen-san in Chicago is Lettuce Entertain You's River North ramen room on Hubbard, with a tonkotsu base and a spicy garlic bowl that pulls the regulars back.
Signature: Spicy garlic ramen, Hong Kong beef noodle
Order: The spicy garlic ramen; the chashu pork bun on the side.
Tip: Lunch is faster than dinner. The 12:30 rush clears by 13:15.
American Barbecue$$irving-parkTue-Thu 11:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-20:00; Mon closed
Smoque BBQ in Chicago is the Irving Park no-frills counter on Pulaski Road since 2006, with brisket and St Louis ribs smoked over apple and hickory in-house.
Signature: Brisket, Pulled pork, St Louis ribs
Order: A sliced brisket plate with the St Louis ribs split. Half-rack rather than full.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Closes at 21:00 sharp and meat sells out from 19:30 on weekends.