Japanese, ramen$$river-north
Ramen-san in Chicago is Lettuce Entertain You's River North ramen room on Hubbard, with a tonkotsu base and a spicy garlic bowl that pulls the regulars back.
Signature: Spicy garlic ramen, Hong Kong beef noodle
Order: The spicy garlic ramen; the chashu pork bun on the side.
Tip: Lunch is faster than dinner. The 12:30 rush clears by 13:15.
American barbecue$$irving-park
Smoque BBQ in Chicago is the Irving Park no-frills counter on Pulaski Road since 2006, with brisket and St Louis ribs smoked over apple and hickory in-house.
Signature: Brisket, Pulled pork, St Louis ribs
Order: A sliced brisket plate with the St Louis ribs split. Half-rack rather than full.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Closes at 21:00 sharp and meat sells out from 19:30 on weekends.
Modernist American$$$$lincoln-park
Alinea in Chicago is Grant Achatz's three-Michelin-star tasting menu at 1723 N Halsted, the dining room that codified American modernist fine dining since 2005.
Signature: Edible balloon, Painted-tablecloth dessert
Order: Whichever course needs your two hands; the kitchen is unsentimental about it.
Tip: Book the Gallery flow if you want the full theatre; Salon is the quieter, three-course-less option.
Modern American$$$$west-loop
Smyth in Chicago is John and Karen Shields's two-Michelin-star tasting menu on Ada Street, with produce from their own farm 90 minutes south of the city.
Signature: Egg yolk in sea-buckthorn, Smoked sturgeon and caviar
Order: The yolk in sea-buckthorn vinegar; it has been on the menu since 2016 for a reason.
Tip: The companion bar downstairs, The Loyalist, runs an excellent burger if you can't land the upstairs seats.
Modern American$$$$west-loop
Oriole in Chicago is Noah Sandoval's two-Michelin-star room on Walnut Street in the West Loop, a quiet 28-seat tasting menu with a strong caviar service.
Signature: Hokkaido scallop with caviar, Quail with mole
Order: The opening caviar course; the kitchen treats it as the focal pivot, not a bookend.
Tip: The wine pairings are unusually well-judged at the German-and-Austrian end. Ask for them by region, not by tier.
Modern American$$$$west-loop
Ever in Chicago is Curtis Duffy's two-Michelin-star Fulton Market tasting menu, opened 2020 after Duffy left Grace, with rigorous service and quiet plating.
Signature: Foie gras with brioche, Wagyu with mushroom
Order: The foie gras course; it is the dish that follows Duffy across his career.
Tip: Sit at the chef's counter if it is on offer at booking. The view of the pass is the room's best seat.