Jewish deli$$downtown
Attman's Delicatessen has anchored downtown's Corned Beef Row since 1915, piling hand-cut corned beef and pastrami high in a no-frills lunch counter.
Signature: Corned beef sandwich, Pastrami, Potato knish
Order: The corned beef sandwich, hand-cut and piled high, with a potato knish.
Tip: Order at the counter, then grab a seat in the Kibbitz Room out back; cash moves the line fastest.
Seafood$$downtown
Faidley's Seafood at Lexington Market has sold its jumbo lump crab cake since 1886, a stand-up counter where you eat the city's benchmark cake off paper.
Signature: Jumbo lump crab cake, Lake trout, Raw bar
Order: The jumbo lump crab cake, broiled, almost all crab and no filler.
Tip: It is a stand-up counter inside Lexington Market; order the lump grade and eat it at the rail.
Pizza$$greektown
Matthew's Pizza in Highlandtown calls itself Baltimore's first pizzeria, open since 1943 and known for a thick-crust pie and a crab pie loaded with lump.
Signature: Thick-crust pizza, Crab pie, Cheese pizza
Order: The crab pie, a thick crust topped with jumbo lump and Old Bay.
Tip: The room is tiny and cash-friendly; the crab pie sells out, so go early on weekends.
Barbecue$$greektown
Chaps Pit Beef on Pulaski Highway is the benchmark for Baltimore pit beef, charcoal-grilling top round rare and piling it on a kaiser with tiger sauce.
Signature: Pit beef sandwich, Tiger sauce, Pit turkey
Order: The pit beef on a kaiser, rare, with tiger sauce and raw onion.
Tip: Order it rare with tiger sauce and onion; the stand recently moved a few hundred feet down Pulaski Highway.
Asian fusion$$fells-point
Ekiben in Fells Point built a citywide following on steamed bao, plating the Neighborhood Bird fried-chicken bun and a tempura broccoli bun in a tiny shop.
Signature: Neighborhood Bird bun, Tempura broccoli bun, Bowls
Order: The Neighborhood Bird steamed bun, fried chicken with herbs and spicy sauce.
Tip: The Fells Point shop is counter-service and tight; there are also Hampden and Locust Point outposts.
Seafood$$$canton
Mama's on the Half Shell on Canton Square is a neighbourhood crab-and-oyster house, working steamed crabs, oysters and a crab cake across two busy floors.
Signature: Steamed crabs, Oysters, Crab cake
Order: A dozen steamed crabs in season, or the crab cake the rest of the year.
Tip: Weekend afternoons overflow with locals; ask for a seat upstairs or out on the patio.
Seafood$$$locust-point
LP Steamers in Locust Point is a classic two-storey crab house, steaming blue crabs heavy with Old Bay and serving a rooftop deck above Fort Avenue.
Signature: Steamed blue crabs, Crab cake, Old Bay shrimp
Order: A dozen heavy steamed crabs and a pitcher, eaten with mallets on the deck.
Tip: The rooftop deck is the seat to ask for; bring cash and patience in peak crab season.
Diner$$remington
Papermoon Diner in Remington is a daytime diner crowded with toys and mannequins, plating big breakfast plates and milkshakes amid the maximalist decor.
Signature: Pancakes, Milkshakes, Big breakfasts
Order: A stack of pancakes and a milkshake.
Tip: It opens Wednesday to Sunday for daytime hours and the decor is the draw; arrive early on weekends to beat the line.
Southwestern$$hampden
Golden West Cafe on Hampden's Avenue is a longtime counter for green chile, breakfast burritos and Southwestern plates with strong vegetarian options.
Signature: Green chile, Breakfast burrito, Huevos rancheros
Order: The green chile, ladled over eggs or a breakfast burrito.
Tip: Weekend brunch lines form on The Avenue; the vegetarian and vegan options run deep.
Italian$$$mount-vernon
Sotto Sopra on Charles Street in Mount Vernon plates house-made pasta and an opera-night supper, a long-running Italian room with a deep wine list.
Signature: House-made pasta, Opera-night dinner, Branzino
Order: A plate of the house-made pasta, plus the branzino when it runs.
Tip: The monthly opera nights are the room's signature; reserve well ahead for those.
American$$$roland-park
Johnny's in Roland Park is Foreman Wolf's relaxed neighbourhood diner, plating a tuna melt, raw-bar plates and a wood-fired all-day menu daily.
Signature: Tuna melt, Raw bar, Wood-fired plates
Order: The tuna melt at lunch, or a raw-bar spread before dinner.
Tip: Johnny's Downstairs is the more grown-up cocktail-and-dinner room below the cafe.
Gastropub$$canton
Of Love and Regret in Brewers Hill is a gastropub from the Stillwater beer team, pairing a tight craft tap list with seasonal plates and Belgian pours.
Signature: Belgian ales, Craft beer, Seasonal plates
Order: Whatever Stillwater or rare Belgian is on draft, with the seasonal plates.
Tip: The tap list rotates fast and leans Belgian and sour; ask the bar what just landed.
Korean American$$mount-vernon
Dooby's in Mount Vernon is an all-day Korean-leaning cafe, plating breakfast sandwiches by day and a ramen and Korean dinner menu after dark.
Signature: Breakfast sandwich, Ramen, Korean dinner plates
Order: The breakfast sandwich early, or a bowl of ramen later in the day.
Tip: It is part cafe, part bistro; the daytime counter and evening dinner service feel like two places.
Italian dessert$$little-italy
Vaccaro's Italian Pastry Shop has filled cannoli to order in Little Italy since 1956, a sit-down dessert counter for gelato, espresso and Italian cookies.
Signature: Cannoli, Gelato, Espresso
Order: A cannoli filled to order, with an espresso to follow.
Tip: The cannoli is filled to order so the shell stays crisp; expect a line after dinner hours.