Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Baltimore actually eats.

Where to eat well, no fuss

Attman's Delicatessen ★ 4.5

Jewish deli$$downtown

Attman's Delicatessen has anchored downtown's Corned Beef Row since 1915, piling hand-cut corned beef and pastrami high in a no-frills lunch counter.

Signature: Corned beef sandwich, Pastrami, Potato knish

Order: The corned beef sandwich, hand-cut and piled high, with a potato knish.

Tip: Order at the counter, then grab a seat in the Kibbitz Room out back; cash moves the line fastest.

Faidley's Seafood ★ 4.7

Seafood$$downtown

Faidley's Seafood at Lexington Market has sold its jumbo lump crab cake since 1886, a stand-up counter where you eat the city's benchmark cake off paper.

Signature: Jumbo lump crab cake, Lake trout, Raw bar

Order: The jumbo lump crab cake, broiled, almost all crab and no filler.

Tip: It is a stand-up counter inside Lexington Market; order the lump grade and eat it at the rail.

Matthew's Pizza ★ 4.3

Pizza$$greektown

Matthew's Pizza in Highlandtown calls itself Baltimore's first pizzeria, open since 1943 and known for a thick-crust pie and a crab pie loaded with lump.

Signature: Thick-crust pizza, Crab pie, Cheese pizza

Order: The crab pie, a thick crust topped with jumbo lump and Old Bay.

Tip: The room is tiny and cash-friendly; the crab pie sells out, so go early on weekends.

Chaps Pit Beef ★ 4.4

Barbecue$$greektown

Chaps Pit Beef on Pulaski Highway is the benchmark for Baltimore pit beef, charcoal-grilling top round rare and piling it on a kaiser with tiger sauce.

Signature: Pit beef sandwich, Tiger sauce, Pit turkey

Order: The pit beef on a kaiser, rare, with tiger sauce and raw onion.

Tip: Order it rare with tiger sauce and onion; the stand recently moved a few hundred feet down Pulaski Highway.

Ekiben ★ 4.6

Asian fusion$$fells-point

Ekiben in Fells Point built a citywide following on steamed bao, plating the Neighborhood Bird fried-chicken bun and a tempura broccoli bun in a tiny shop.

Signature: Neighborhood Bird bun, Tempura broccoli bun, Bowls

Order: The Neighborhood Bird steamed bun, fried chicken with herbs and spicy sauce.

Tip: The Fells Point shop is counter-service and tight; there are also Hampden and Locust Point outposts.

Mama's on the Half Shell ★ 4.2

Seafood$$$canton

Mama's on the Half Shell on Canton Square is a neighbourhood crab-and-oyster house, working steamed crabs, oysters and a crab cake across two busy floors.

Signature: Steamed crabs, Oysters, Crab cake

Order: A dozen steamed crabs in season, or the crab cake the rest of the year.

Tip: Weekend afternoons overflow with locals; ask for a seat upstairs or out on the patio.

LP Steamers ★ 4.4

Seafood$$$locust-point

LP Steamers in Locust Point is a classic two-storey crab house, steaming blue crabs heavy with Old Bay and serving a rooftop deck above Fort Avenue.

Signature: Steamed blue crabs, Crab cake, Old Bay shrimp

Order: A dozen heavy steamed crabs and a pitcher, eaten with mallets on the deck.

Tip: The rooftop deck is the seat to ask for; bring cash and patience in peak crab season.

Papermoon Diner ★ 4.0

Diner$$remington

Papermoon Diner in Remington is a daytime diner crowded with toys and mannequins, plating big breakfast plates and milkshakes amid the maximalist decor.

Signature: Pancakes, Milkshakes, Big breakfasts

Order: A stack of pancakes and a milkshake.

Tip: It opens Wednesday to Sunday for daytime hours and the decor is the draw; arrive early on weekends to beat the line.

Golden West Cafe ★ 4.1

Southwestern$$hampden

Golden West Cafe on Hampden's Avenue is a longtime counter for green chile, breakfast burritos and Southwestern plates with strong vegetarian options.

Signature: Green chile, Breakfast burrito, Huevos rancheros

Order: The green chile, ladled over eggs or a breakfast burrito.

Tip: Weekend brunch lines form on The Avenue; the vegetarian and vegan options run deep.

Sotto Sopra ★ 4.2

Italian$$$mount-vernon

Sotto Sopra on Charles Street in Mount Vernon plates house-made pasta and an opera-night supper, a long-running Italian room with a deep wine list.

Signature: House-made pasta, Opera-night dinner, Branzino

Order: A plate of the house-made pasta, plus the branzino when it runs.

Tip: The monthly opera nights are the room's signature; reserve well ahead for those.

Johnny's ★ 4.2

American$$$roland-park

Johnny's in Roland Park is Foreman Wolf's relaxed neighbourhood diner, plating a tuna melt, raw-bar plates and a wood-fired all-day menu daily.

Signature: Tuna melt, Raw bar, Wood-fired plates

Order: The tuna melt at lunch, or a raw-bar spread before dinner.

Tip: Johnny's Downstairs is the more grown-up cocktail-and-dinner room below the cafe.

Of Love and Regret ★ 4.1

Gastropub$$canton

Of Love and Regret in Brewers Hill is a gastropub from the Stillwater beer team, pairing a tight craft tap list with seasonal plates and Belgian pours.

Signature: Belgian ales, Craft beer, Seasonal plates

Order: Whatever Stillwater or rare Belgian is on draft, with the seasonal plates.

Tip: The tap list rotates fast and leans Belgian and sour; ask the bar what just landed.

Dooby's ★ 4.2

Korean American$$mount-vernon

Dooby's in Mount Vernon is an all-day Korean-leaning cafe, plating breakfast sandwiches by day and a ramen and Korean dinner menu after dark.

Signature: Breakfast sandwich, Ramen, Korean dinner plates

Order: The breakfast sandwich early, or a bowl of ramen later in the day.

Tip: It is part cafe, part bistro; the daytime counter and evening dinner service feel like two places.

Vaccaro's Italian Pastry Shop ★ 4.3

Italian dessert$$little-italy

Vaccaro's Italian Pastry Shop has filled cannoli to order in Little Italy since 1956, a sit-down dessert counter for gelato, espresso and Italian cookies.

Signature: Cannoli, Gelato, Espresso

Order: A cannoli filled to order, with an espresso to follow.

Tip: The cannoli is filled to order so the shell stays crisp; expect a line after dinner hours.

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